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Gm V-5 clutch drag question

kd auto on Sat October 07, 2006 5:53 PM User is offline

Year: 95-
Make: GM

Just wondering what the root cause of the dreaded clutch drag is. Is it play in the brg or rust buildup between the plate and hub? Why is adjusting the hub an acceptable fix? Wouldn't that just increase the air gap so it'd become problematic(erratic engagement)? I have seen 2 just this week. Normally, I replace the whole darn assy. I just hate comebacks. No one here just adjusts them.

Chick on Sat October 07, 2006 7:26 PM User is offlineView users profile

usually mnechanics don't know how. That is the reason they don't adjust them. Reason can be from a bearing with some wear causing a slight tilt, in which case you're just "buying time" or the constant slamming of the clutch as it's pulled in decreasing the gap (very likely as they are press fit),, But I always do the adjustment if I can to save the customer money, and they will come back if the bearing does go or a compressor is needed..people appreciate being helped when they can, rather than getting blasted with a high repair bill. I have to say I "seldom" have the car back for the same season I did the adjustment..And you can tell if the bearing is bad usually, in which case you advise them of it.. Save them a year, and you'll get all their work....

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

GM Tech on Sun October 08, 2006 11:37 AM User is offline

I studied this- did some reasearch- the root cause is because the clutch is e-coated as an assembly- therefore there is no coating behind the springs where they are riveted onto the armature plate- as the clutch is engaged the springs bend away from the armature plate- and corrosion begins to build up in this non-coated area- soon (3-4 yrs) there is about .020" of corrosion that now won't allow the armature to fully retract against its stops- so in short any V-5 built from about 1996 till 2004 will be susceptible to this phenomena-- I dubbed it "Classic V-5 Clutch Drag" in many of my explanations of the fix- so you can either clean behind the springs- or more easily just increase the gap- I have regapped several hundred- and never had a comeback. Older V-5s (prior to 1996) were e-coated before the springs were assembled and did not have this problem- or were painted pumps prior to '94. There is not a bearing issue- if it were- other models H-6, R-4 etc would do the same thing- only the V-5s do this- and only the V-5s were e-coated after clutch spring assembly......The V-5s also do not cycle like the other models- so there is less ability to "knock away" the corrosion.....Just my input...........

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Chick on Sun October 08, 2006 3:14 PM User is offlineView users profile

And it makes sense (you always do) But I have found on some other models, R4's and H6's that when the bearing begins to wear, you will get a "simular" problem. Of course, it doesn't get better and breaing failure is not far away..But the V5 explaination makes a lot of sense. I haven't had come backs since I began adjusting them either. But when you do the clutch gap adjustment for someone who was told they need a new compressor, you can bet the next AC job they need is in your shop, not the other...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

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