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Topic Title: Need Help Sanden/Dodge Dakota Compressor
Created On Sat October 28, 2006 11:53 AM
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kw6364
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Sat October 28, 2006 11:53 AM
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Year: 2000
Make: Dodge
Model: Dakota
Engine Size: 4.7
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Country of Origin: United States

Problem: The truck was making horrible noise. Identified that the compressor was the culprit. It appears that the bearings are ready to go. The pulley wobbles slightly while running. The AC still seems to work. If I don't replace/fix the unit....eventually the pulley will fail...the serpentine belt will fail and the truck is disabled.
resolution: I need to find a replacement ac compressor and install!!!
Details: It is a 2000 dodge dakota with a 4.7 liter engine. The original unit is a SANDEN model number 4797. It also has the number (55056107AA) on it....maybe a dodge part number?

What I have done and found so far is that Sanden makes tons of compressors and they can differ. I have been looking for a chart with cross-over information but can't find. So far all the web sites call for a SANDEN SD7H15 as the cross over model. I just want to first make sure this unit will work for my application then I want to identify what I have to do to make it work. When I get this unit it is just not as simple as bolting it in. I have heard that there are a few other items that must be taken care of. For instance do I have to put a bottle of PAG oil in the unit if it is brand new? I have been told to use the PAG45 as well as the PAG100....which one should I use....how do I find out???? Also I have been told that I must replace the drier...do I have to even if the unit did not fail??? One local parts guy told me he wasn't showing a drier in his system but did list an accumulator...what the heck does this mean??? Are they 2 different parts or the same thing with a different name???
I just want to make sure I get the right parts and do the right things....any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks KW

 
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TRB
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Here is a link for the items/images we list for this vehicle. We also have a new compressor available if that is what you prefer. Not sure why it was not listed but we will get that fixed next week.

2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L

I show PAG 100 as the correct oil for this application. I would replace the drier on this vehicle after 6 years of use if I had to open the system for a repair.



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TRB
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This is an image of another listing I have for this vehicle. Notice the mounting tabs are a little different between the image in the link and this image.

Item # 20-04825 New Sanden compressor/clutch.




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Dougflas
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Sat October 28, 2006 4:40 PM
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why not just pull the clutch and change the bearing?

 
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TRB
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You could if the wobble has not damaged the nose of the compressor. Might also be a pinned bearing which can be replaced but is really designed as a pulley replacement.

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kw6364
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Sat October 28, 2006 5:47 PM
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Quote

Originally posted by: TRB
This is an image of another listing I have for this vehicle. Notice the mounting tabs are a little different between the image in the link and this image.



Item # 20-04825 New Sanden compressor/clutch.








 
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kw6364
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Sat October 28, 2006 6:09 PM
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Thanks for the help guys!!! I just wanted to say if I can just do the clutch/bearing assembly to solve the problem then that would be great. Also I am attaching an article I found on the web that talks about some mounting differences that a good guy found while dealing with the sanden models similar to mine. Tim ... maybe that unit with the tabs you talked about is what I found in this article. Maybe you can review and see if that new unit will work for me.
Thanks KW

Attached article:

Recently, a local mechanic requested a compressor for a 2001 Dodge
Dakota. I checked our application data base and found that a part number
for this truck appeared to also cross over to the Sanden numbers of a
few “new” SD7H15s that were sitting on our shelf. So, when he came by to
pick up the compressor and drop off his core, we checked to make sure
the compressors were the same and that our application information was
correct. Everything checked out (maybe).

A few hours later, the mechanic called back and said that the compressor
was incorrect; there’s a mounting bolt on the vehicle that will not fit
through one of the compressor’s ears. He brought it back and so we could
see that the small rear mounting ear was closed at one end and threaded.
His core had the threads in ear bored smooth and the closed end machined
off, making the ear open at both ends.

My thought was that this must be some aftermarket modification to the
compressor because we had verified the Chrysler number from the new
compressor on a 2000 Dakota before. I pulled another new SD7H15 marked
with our same part number. This Chrysler number was one letter off from
the one I had previously pulled. I checked that rear ear and lo and
behold, it too had been bored out (a small trace of threads remained)
and the end was machined off. This difference had previously gone
unnoticed, even though we had catalogued the compressor and had included
what we thought were small variations: the two different head types
(recessed and non-recessed PRV), coil harness, different casting
markings, etc. I switched out the compressors, apologized for my
ignorance, and set out to make sure this mistake never happened again.

The compressor with the closed-ended, threaded ear was Sanden part
number U4729 and Chrysler number 55055517AB. The compressor with the
machined ear bore the numbers U4791 and 55055517AD. This got Ron (my
uncle and business partner for those who don't know us) started on a
mission to differentiate these seemingly identical compressors. We
pulled all the cores in our warehouse and began examining them. All of
them had the machined ear. They were Sanden numbers U4854, U4853, U4824,
U4898, and U4791 and Chrysler numbers 55055517AC, 55055517AD,
55055517AE, 55056335AA, 55057333AA, and 55056107AD. The cylinder
housings are all 4729 series castings, but some are marked 4729 A01,
4729 A05, or 4729 A07. The evidence lead me to believe that the U4729
compressor that is applicable to the 2000 Dakota is the earlier version,
and the unit for the 2001 Dakota and Durango is a modified version
thereof.

With the proper tooling, the U4729 compressor can be modified in-house
to accommodate the newer vehicles, but the reverse cannot be achieved.
This difference is something to keep in mind when ordering a compressor
for 2000 and 2001 Dodge Dakotas or Durangos.


 
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ice-n-tropics
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Mon October 30, 2006 10:34 AM
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Tim posted the correct photo at 2:00 on 10/28/06 of the correct compressor #4825 for 2000 - 2001.5 4.7 L. This is the so called swing mount which is used to eliminate the compressor mounting bracket to save Chrysler a few bucks.
The oil comes inside the compressor is the same amount as supplied to the factory for use with a dry system. Oil is SP15 PAG with 80 Cst viscosity (closer to PAG 100 than to PAG46.
If no oil has leaked out, you need to remove oil from the new compressor so that the same amount of oil is put on as is removed in the old compressor and take off accumulator.
Cordially,
ICE

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kw6364
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Mon October 30, 2006 3:29 PM
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Tim How much for this unit???

 
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TRB
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$ 221.00 plus freight charges. We edited that listing on the first link this morning. So the proper compressor is now available through the online store.

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Contact: Arizona Mobile Air


Edited: Mon October 30, 2006 at 4:59 PM by TRB

 
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kw6364
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Thanks Tim....what PAG oil would be used for this unit.....I see some sandens with PAG45 and others with PAG 100. It seems from what I read its about 50/50 with the results (very confusing).

 
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TRB
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PAG100, but as Ice has stated you need to follow some procedures if you do not flush the system and start with a fresh oil charge.

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c32077
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Hey Guys,

A Newbie here. I actually have just run into this problem this morning. It started making a terrible noise at idle while at a red light. I got to work and located the noise in the compressor. Figured the bearings were going or almost gone. I called a few auto parts places and ordered the pulley and a new belt. I am hoping to make it home to take my motorcycle to the parts store and pick up my parts. I have a couple of questions for you guys.

1. Are there any specialty tools I need to replace the pulley?
2. Do I need to remove the entire assembly from the truck to replace the pulley or can I just remove and replace the pulley alone?

Thanks guys.

Chuck

 
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Chick
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Year make and model of the car/truck..All compressors are different, and wether or not it's mounted high or low depending on make...

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c32077
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Mon November 06, 2006 5:15 PM
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Quote

Originally posted by: Chick
Year make and model of the car/truck..All compressors are different, and wether or not it's mounted high or low depending on make...


Oh I'm sorry. It's also a 2000 Dakota 4.7

I didn't mention it before because the initial post was about the same.

Sorry about that.

Chuck

 
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Chick
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You may need to buy or borrow the clutch puller from autozone loan tool program. Remove the nut in the center, (You can energize the clutch to hold it, or use a screwdriver between the "lugs" on the outer pulley) then once the nut is removed, you may need the puller that screws into the three holes and pushes against the shaft to break it free..Once the outer plate is removed the pulley is held on with a snap ring..Remove that and tap the pulley off, and the new one on..it's much easier than I make it sound, but you "may" need the few specialized tools mentioned...When installing the outer plate (clutch) be sure not to lose any of the shims..You may need to add or remove some..The gap should be close...A bussines card should fit snugly between the pulley and the clutch....Hope this helps.

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c32077
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Quote

Originally posted by: Chick
You may need to buy or borrow the clutch puller from autozone loan tool program. Remove the nut in the center, (You can energize the clutch to hold it, or use a screwdriver between the "lugs" on the outer pulley) then once the nut is removed, you may need the puller that screws into the three holes and pushes against the shaft to break it free..Once the outer plate is removed the pulley is held on with a snap ring..Remove that and tap the pulley off, and the new one on..it's much easier than I make it sound, but you "may" need the few specialized tools mentioned...When installing the outer plate (clutch) be sure not to lose any of the shims..You may need to add or remove some..The gap should be close...A bussines card should fit snugly between the pulley and the clutch....Hope this helps.


It helps a lot. One more question.

I have a steering wheel puller. Will that work?

I have to wait 3 days for my part to come in. They told me they had it but when I got there they showed me the tensioner pulley. That's all they had. I really want to get this fixed right away. I am driving to Pittsburgh, PA from Hampton, NH for Thanksgiving. I don't want to do it on my motorcycle. I'll have no choice for the next couple of days though. It's gonna be a chilly ride to work.

Thanks again for the help.

Chuck

 
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Chick
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Look at the front hub on yours..The holes are threaded, but I have been able to gently slide them off with opposing screw drivers..But not always. You don't want to damage the outer hub..But once it breaks free, it will slide right off most times..Start doing it now while you wait for the parts..The hardest part is going to be the outer pulley..So if you need the puller, you can most likely borrow from Autozone..Once you remove the outer hub, the pulley is exposed, and you can remove it now or wait til the new one gets there..Only held on with a snap ring...

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c32077
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Cannot find a place around here that loans tools. My only option now is to order the entire compressor. Is there anything I should know about removing/replacing this? Specialty tools? "Watch out for..." ? Ease or difficulty of? Thanks again.

 
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Chick
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You can contact Tim at Ackits.com and price either the compressor, or the clutch removal tools..They come in a kit and are great to have..But, did you try the screw driver trick yet?? If all you need is a pulley, I can't see having the system recovered then recharged. That has to be done by a shop if you don't have the equipment...you MUST pull a deep vacuum and charge the system amount back into the vacuum if you change the compressor...Let us know how you make out..

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c32077
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I have been told by the parts stores here that the pulley isn't a replacable item. I have to replace the whole compressor. It is already on order and will be here Thursday. I am no longer considering the pulley. I've already spent the money on the compressor and I don't want to keep flip flopping. I have to get this road ready in short time. This weekend is my only real opportunity to do it.

After it's installed is it possible to drive it to a shop that can charge it for me? Friends of mine said they have charged their own before and it's not difficult, but none have actually replaced the compressor. Do I have to take it to a shop to have the lines purged as well as having the unit charged? or can I do this stuff at home? I will look at kits online today. I just was hoping for some first hand knowledge.

Thank you very much for your help.

Chuck

 
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Chick
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Well, the parts store lied to you..but that aside, the compressor won't run while empty so you can drive it to a shop for the vac/charge..The belt will turn on the pulley, just won't engage....Hope this helps..

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kw6364
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Hre is where I am at.
I purchased and installed a new compressor last night. I also have the receiver/drier (new) but cannot find where it goes. We checked all usual spots and followed all of the lines to no avail. I have since been told that the system is possibly an orifice system and that it only has the accumulator on the low side with no receiver/drier on the high side (I need to confirm this). Anyhow the first order of business was to the truck back on the road....so I have done that. We installed the comressor with a new serpentine belt but did not plug in the electrical connection. This prevents the unit from coming on but lets it act like just a pulley for now. Key note: if you are going to install compressor without a charge it will burn the compressor I was told so DO NOT plug in the electrical socket....this will at least get you up and running. The next order of business is to get this new baby charged up and running. My mechanic was told that the new unit (since it came packed dry) would take the whole bottle of PAG oil for a charge. When he tried to put it in .... it only took about three quarters of the bottle. I TOLD HIM WHAT YOU SAID ICE but he did not listen about dumping the old and matching it. So right now I need to get the right amount of oil in the unit (before proceeding). I may have to add or take some out. Now that this is done how do I from scratch determine whether I need more or less oil??? Next I will get the system e-vac'd and recharged and hopefully all will be good. Remember my clutch/bearrings were going and it was not a system problem that led to the new unit. Keeping that in mind....having never flushed the system, and possibly doing things in somewhat of a backwards order.....what are my chances of success???? Should I proceed differently than I have outlined???

Thanks KW

 
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Chick
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First, an accumulator or a drier, not both (your's obviously has an accumulator?)
Next, there is no way to determine how much oil is in the system without flushing it.
How much was the "bottle" 8 ounce, four ouce, two ounce???

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kw6364
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Thu November 09, 2006 10:12 PM
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So a system will have one or the other.....not both right???? It was an 8 oz bottle.

 
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