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#8 to #10 Adapters for Under dash unit

skipper on Wed September 19, 2007 12:06 AM User is offline

Year: 1950
Make: chevy
Model: truck
Engine Size: 235
Refrigerant Type: r134
Country of Origin: United States

Hey Guys,

First off, has anyone built or installed an A/C unit for a in-line six chevy pickup?

I am trying to install an under dash A/C unit in my truck. The unit is an older Ford unit and it has flare fittings. I believe that the fittings on the evaporator are #8 mail flare fittings. I am planning on installing an evaporator valve with o-ring fittings with the help of a few flare-to- o-ring adapters. My compressor is a York model, and it has #10 return and # 8 male oring line. So, the line exiting the evaporator is #8 and it has to connect to a #10 on the compressor. I have not been able to find any reducing fittings for this. Has anyone ever had this problem? Any suggestions.

Thanks,
Rene

ice-n-tropics on Wed September 19, 2007 9:58 AM User is offline

Skipper,
Yea, I hung an underdash Mark IV Allegro evap on my 56 Blue Flame Chevy PU. I saw another Allegro installation on a 57 Chevy last weekend which looked really sharp and in the time zone.
A wise decision would be to use your York for a boat anchor for Gilligan to throw overboard, of course that may sink your ship in deep water. The York just gets by for a short time on a big V-8 but is not recommended for smaller engines. It shakes like a banshee on a tug boat and eats belts and mounting brackets. Also, the front shaft seal redistributes the refrigeration oil all around under the hood. That's why no new vehicles use them anymore. Also, they slow you down 5 knots.
If you have the York mounting bracket, you can get a low cost adapter plate to mount a Sanden SD508 #8390 from AMA which has #8 and #10 flare fittings. If you want R-134a instead of R-12, pour the mineral oil out of the SD508 and use 4.5 oz, of PAG 100. The rubber components are all R-134a compatible. The 508 is a favorite of the old car crowd. The #8390 also still has high and low side R-12 service gage ports on the back which can be adapted to R-134a quick disconnects.
Maybe Tim has a flare fitting valve if you want to replace the old evap valve. Sometimes I just pull the inlet screen out of old R-12 valves and reuse them very successfully. Heck, hardly any valves use inlet screens anymore.
You should consider to replace the 4 blade engine driven fan with something better.
Cordially,
Old IV guy


-------------------------
Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

bohica2xo on Wed September 19, 2007 2:06 PM User is offline

Ok, I may make Tex scream here but...

If you have the original 235, I suspect you will be fabricating brackets for what ever compressor you will be mounting. You indicate the unit came from a ford, so the bracket you have is part of your boat anchor kit.

I would build brackets to mount a V5 or V7 GM compressor on that 235. Variable displacment, and evaporator pressure control. Lots of cooling power, and reduced engine load by destroking when it is not needed.

As for the flare fittings, why use adaptors? Flare fittings seal just fine - we went to the moon & back with them. A flare TXV to match your old one is available. You will be using custom hoses anyway, so whay add adaptors to the path.

B.

-------------------------
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

skipper on Thu September 20, 2007 11:41 AM User is offline

The main reason I am changing to o-ring type fittings is that my condensor, filter and may lines I am using are already o-ring type. Only the compressor and evaporator are flare. I figure I should make all the connectors the same. The main problem I see is that the evaporator return line is #8 and the compressor is #10 line. I need a way to make that connection?

Can you tell me more about the V5 or V7 GM compressor. What car models did these come out of? You mentioned that they would be better is that because they require less horsepower to drive them?


Thanks,
Skipper

skipper on Thu September 20, 2007 11:49 AM User is offline

Thanks for the inputs I am curious, can you tell me how well the under dash Mark V worked in your truck? The unit I am using is the old copper pipe evaporator not the newer style aluminum. I do see the most people use the sanden 508 but they are a bit expensive. Where they used on production cars? I am still a novice at this A/C thing but I did manage to rebuild my 83 mercedes diesel system.

Thanks again,
skipper

ice-n-tropics on Thu September 20, 2007 12:12 PM User is offline

Skipper,
The old Cu tube and AL fin hang on A/C evap made condensation on the outside of the back window while my Honey snuggled close to get warm.
Our friend Bohica has a variable compressor idea that I have never seen before. If the compressor control valve and the pressure regulator don't both try to control during the same suction pressure range, then the flow rate of R-134a could stabilize and avoid hunting.
A Sanden SD5H14 #6664 has 3/4 and 7/8 vertical o-ring fittings but no gage service ports. Check AMA for price.
The 508 was on VWs, Jeeps, many tractors and trucks and Plymouth Valiants and many European cars. Originally called the MC508 (Mitchell Co. home of Mark IV) and was introduced in 1972. It's a little noisy as compared to SD7 series.
Cordially,
Old IV guy

-------------------------
Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

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