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How to read current AC working pressure? Pages: 12

DailyDrivenTJ on Wed December 19, 2007 9:59 PM User is offline

Year: 1998
Make: Jeep
Model: Wrangler
Engine Size: 4.0L
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Country of Origin: United States

Hey guys,

I just want to know, how do you read current AC working pressure using the AC manifold gauge, without contaminating the system?

I guess I am asking for the detailed procedure like for example "Step 1. connect the manifold to correct port.."

I apologize if this question has been asked before.

TRB on Thu December 20, 2007 10:20 AM User is offlineView users profile

Step 1

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DailyDrivenTJ on Thu December 20, 2007 4:18 PM User is offline

Well that not only covers Step 1 but all else. Thanks.

BTW, do the caps on the ports have to be tight? Can that cause the system to leak?

Edited: Thu December 20, 2007 at 4:19 PM by DailyDrivenTJ

Dougflas on Thu December 20, 2007 9:04 PM User is offline

the caps are actually the primary seal. The schraders are the secondary seal. Caps should be installed with good gaskets and tightened securely but don't break or strip them.

TRB on Thu December 20, 2007 9:08 PM User is offlineView users profile

I did not mean to come off as a smart a**. The Mastercool repair manual is an excellent resource to have if you are learning the basics. Terms used will also help us help you when discussing your questions.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

DailyDrivenTJ on Thu December 20, 2007 10:06 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
I did not mean to come off as a smart a**. The Mastercool repair manual is an excellent resource to have if you are learning the basics. Terms used will also help us help you when discussing your questions.

No offense taken, I was just in a hurry to learn stuff because I am tearing down my HVAC box out of the Jeep in a couple of days to replace the heater core. If I order the book it would take a me few days to get it with holidays coming up. I was just hoping that I would get some answers quick.

I guess I was asking how do you charge with pressure? Can you replicate your current operating pressure?

I see that you NEVER charge on the high pressure side and pulling vacuum before recharging on the evacuated or leaked system.

Chick on Thu December 20, 2007 10:13 PM User is offlineView users profile

You have a factory R134a system, so you would charge back the "factory amount" into a deep vacuum, stop when it's full... You then use the pressures to trouble shoot, but all the math has been done for you, by charging the factory amount back in, then just check the pressures to see if you have a problem..But you need the full charge.. You could add a little UV dye, and if any oil is lost replace that amount..

98 Wrangler = 20ounces Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Chick on Thu December 20, 2007 10:18 PM User is offlineView users profile

Also, check out this Vac/charge procedure and most of the questions are answered there, but your Jeep is not a retrofit, so you fill the full amount back in..Hope this helps.

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

DailyDrivenTJ on Thu December 20, 2007 10:43 PM User is offline

I noticed some refill kit with sealers and stuff in it. I read ALL sealers are bad that what I want is straight R-134a. Can I get that as an unlicensed shadetree mechanic?

Thanks Chick!

Chick on Thu December 20, 2007 11:02 PM User is offlineView users profile

"DO NOT" use anything but virgin R134a, with the exception of UV dye and the right oil..Nothing else.... Yes, you can buy R134a in just about every state but where NICK lives without a license....Do it right and you;'ll do it once....

Sealers??? Just say no....

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

DailyDrivenTJ on Fri December 21, 2007 11:57 PM User is offline

Thanks again. One more question (I am sure I will come up with more but...), does the dryer has to be changed each time the AC system is opened?

Chick on Sat December 22, 2007 6:20 AM User is offlineView users profile

If it's going to be open for any extended period of time, or if it's a few years old, then yes, but if you are just changing a part and the accumulator/drier isn't that old, you can seal it off ands reuse..It's just good insurance to change it after the system is opened, especia;;y if it will be opened for some time, and it's a few years old..Otherwise you would not change it just for the sake of changing it...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

DailyDrivenTJ on Sat December 22, 2007 2:25 PM User is offline

So I guess for my almost 10 year old Jeep, I should change it if I open it up. Thank you very much for your help.

TRB on Sat December 22, 2007 2:45 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: DailyDrivenTJ
So I guess for my almost 10 year old Jeep, I should change it if I open it up. Thank you very much for your help.

I certainly would. Unless it is a quick o-ring change or something like that. It is always best to replace the accumulator/drier.



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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

DailyDrivenTJ on Sat December 22, 2007 8:51 PM User is offline

I think I read somewhere on this forum that I need to change the O rings wherever I disconnect the line which makes perfect sense. Should I bother changing out other O rings by disconnecting other connections? Or leave it if it ain't broke??

Also, should I clean the evaporator while it is out, I guess I have to be really gentle? I am sure it will be very nasty after 10 years of service. What do yall experts say?

Chick on Sat December 22, 2007 9:05 PM User is offlineView users profile

If it ain't broke don't fix it, but any lines you open you should change the O rings and coat them with NYLOG assembly lube. As far as cleaning the evap, by all means do so. Cap the lines so no water gets into it though.... You can vehicle specific O ring kits from the site's sponsor, ackits.com Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

DailyDrivenTJ on Sat December 22, 2007 9:40 PM User is offline

Is the NYLOG lube something that I can get locally? I would buy it through the sponsor if I had the time.

Chick on Sat December 22, 2007 9:42 PM User is offlineView users profile

Some of the better HVAC stores should have it. If you can't find it, use refrigerant oil, mineral is recommended, but make sure the O rings are lubed..Hope this helps.

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

DailyDrivenTJ on Sat December 22, 2007 9:58 PM User is offline

I am going to be using the can to charge the system. Do I need to purchase one of those can tap?

Chick on Sat December 22, 2007 10:04 PM User is offlineView users profile

You will need a can tap, I would suggest the side can tap, easier to use..Try to fugure the exact amount you're putting in. Two cans should do it with the loss from each can and what the hoses use. Be sure to purge the air out of the hose before putting the refrigerant into the system.. Two can's is 24 ounces, but you will lose some when you switch cans and they never seem to empty if I remember, (haven't used small cans in years) so that will take up the 4 ounces over...Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Chick on Sat December 22, 2007 10:19 PM User is offlineView users profile

here's a pic of the mastercool side can tap Check out all the mastercool tools, as I have a feeling you will be getting gratification from doing your own car, and that will develope into a love of AC work. Family friends and neighbors will be asking you to fix their cars, you will make enough money to pay for your tools, gain experience and not to mention the enjoyment of doing it your self...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

DailyDrivenTJ on Sat December 22, 2007 10:42 PM User is offline

Chick, I want to say "thank you" once more because your help is more valuable to me than you can imagine and the word of encouragement is also appreciated.

I enjoy working on my own things whatever it may be. Learning is also a big part of DIY for me, it is just time that kills the "sit down and read" learning for me at this point.

BTW how do I bleed the air out? I see a little needle valve(?) on the fill line near the manifold gauge which seems like it would open if I push in with some pointy object. I would think that would bleed the air out of the yellow line. But how do you bleed the air out of the high and low side of the line? Do I just keep it in the vacuum, connect the can and bleed the yellow line using the "needle valve" then everything should be golden?? I just made that up.

Chick on Sun December 23, 2007 5:02 AM User is offlineView users profile

While the system is under vacuum, close the valves on the manifold, connect your can, then bleed the yellow hose of air by letting refrigerat in the bottom and crack the top..then tighten the yellow hose and let the vacuum pull the refrigerant in..Hope this helps.

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

DailyDrivenTJ on Sun December 23, 2007 10:38 PM User is offline

I have decided, I will do this more properly by ordering some parts from ACKits.com. Like someone said, do it right and you will do it once.

I called around the local parts stores around here. I mean NONE, No one behind the parts counter was able to tell me what Nylog sealant was. They have never even heard of it.


Here is to order list from ACKits.com:

Nylog (Blue) Gasket Thread Sealant for HFC Systems
DEC PAG - 100 (8 Ounce Bottle)
R134a Can Tap (US Standard) -> This seems like it would let me close the can if I need to. The other version punctures the side of the can??
Drier/Accumulator
Orifice Tube (Purple)


I already have picked up:

O rings (specific for Jeep Wrangler BTW, the website says YJ, Wranglers after 97 till 2006 (inclusive) is called TJ and anything afterward is called JK.)
A/C gauge Manifold
Vacuum pump
Digital scale


Am I missing anything?

BTW I saw some PAG oil in cans. how do I feed this into the system? I guess low pressure port sucks it in?

Thanks again

Edited: Sun December 23, 2007 at 11:09 PM by DailyDrivenTJ

Chick on Mon December 24, 2007 5:26 AM User is offlineView users profile

I would stay away from the oil in pressurized cans, for no other reason but "quality". They work, but my own opinion is to use fresh virgin oil from a sealed container, and always use "double end capped" oil as it is "less" hydroscopic" than single end capped PAG oil..

If you've ever worked on a 10 or 20 year old car where the connections are so tight from corrosion that you can break the lines, you would never put a system together again without nylog.. One drop on threads and they will come apart twenty years down the road, as if you just put it together. (Of course I have't done one after twenty years myself, but have opened a system I put together three years old.)

I see you have a digital scale..That is great, but your system uses 20 ounces??? If so, two cans will do it as you will lose some in the hoses and when you switch cans, so don't lose sleep over the exact weight, it's very hard using cans..

But it looks like you're set, you have a plan, and should do just fine..We're here to help should you need it...
Have a very merry Christmas....

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

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