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Mitsubishi Mirage 2000 expansion valve replacement

AC Amiture on Sat February 16, 2008 7:04 PM User is offline

Year: 2000
Make: Mitsubishi
Model: Mirage
Engine Size: 1.5
Refrigerant Type: 134

What is required to replace the expansion valve.

It looks as though I may have to tear out the whole passenger side dash.

Isn't there any easier way to do this?

If not, what will I have to remove?

I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the dash and other interior panels off.

Any and all help appreciated.

Thanks

Chick on Sat February 16, 2008 7:14 PM User is offlineView users profile

The japanese cars are usually easier to access the expansion valves than others, but I have not done a mitsu in a "long time" and don't know about the 2000 model year. If no one here comes forward, I would suggest a subscription to alldata for your specific car. It will save you more in time than the subscription costs. Especially if the dash need not be removed, which I doubt it does. Usually you can drop the evap case, or part of it.. But as I said, I'm really not sure on that one.. I will check into it though...be patient....

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Chick on Sat February 16, 2008 7:24 PM User is offlineView users profile

According to Mitchell it takes 6+ hours to change the evap core/case assembly, but just over an hour for the expansion valve. That means there has to be access to it thru the evap box which is held (halves) by clips. You may want to remove the glove box to get a better view of the side of the case, and should be able to get in thru there, after removing the blower ducts etc.. But I see no need to remove the dash.. Check out the alldata subscription for more detailed information..Hope this helps....

AcDelco lists the same Expansion valve from 91 to 04 on many different Mitsubisihi models. Prices range from $53. to AcKits.com at under $15.00 I don't know how you do it Tim...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Sat February 16, 2008 at 7:37 PM by Chick

AC Amiture on Sat February 16, 2008 8:24 PM User is offline

Thanks for the quick reply.
I have it opened up partially (glove box out, and seat removed to make work easer). There are 3 clips that I have removed but the box only partially separates and it's not enough to do any work. I can just barely see in to the valve, however, I'll have to get it opened up more to change it. I'm going to sign up to alldata. I need some good drawings or pictures so I'm not tearing apart a lot of stuff I don't need to. Any other suggestions are most welcome.

Thanks

Chick on Sat February 16, 2008 8:26 PM User is offlineView users profile

Alldata should walk you right thru it. As I said, they only give you a little over an hour to change it, I think the top comes off first, but not sure..Let us know if the alldata helped you.. Should have pics and drawings....

PS: Alldata should tell you if there are fasteners from the "engine side" of the firewall that need to be removed, stuff like that can save a lot of time...Good luck

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Sat February 16, 2008 at 8:28 PM by Chick

AC Amiture on Sat February 16, 2008 9:05 PM User is offline

I'll be back at it in the AM I'll let you know how it works out. I've already seen where there is another clip I need to remove (I hope I can get to it) and a drain spigot on the engine side.

THX

bohica2xo on Sun February 17, 2008 4:05 AM User is offline

Remove:

Glove box

Glove box frame

Disconnect pressure & suction line at firewall in engine bay

Drain Hose

ECU connector

Disconnect blower duct joints

Remove nuts

Remove evaporator case from car

----------

Be careful, the A/C ECU is inside the evaporator case. It comes out when you pull the top off. It is connected to the thermistor in the evaporator face.

That vehicle also has odd low side pressure specs...

77f ambient temp, Low side 5.8 to 19.6 psi - tested at 1000 engine rpm, doors & windows closed, recirculate air. Blower on high. Pressures are checked after running for 20 minutes in that condition.


B.

-------------------------
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

TRB on Sun February 17, 2008 11:29 AM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: bohica2xo
Remove:

Disconnect pressure & suction line at firewall in engine bay B.

Just adding, refrigerant must be reclaimed before removing or opening any connections.



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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

AC Amiture on Sun February 17, 2008 2:51 PM User is offline

Well I took a look this morning. At least one of the clips is behind the blower's exhaust duct and can't be seen or felt. There is not a drain hose. The evaporator housing is shaped so that the condensed water drains to an exit hole and there is a small spigot like attachment that passes through the fire wall to mate with the housing drain hole. there are brake lines running in front of the "spigot" that make it very hard to get to.

" According to Mitchell it takes 6+ hours to change the evap core/case assembly, but just over an hour for the expansion valve. That means there has to be access to it thru the evap box which is held (halves) by clips. You may want to remove the glove box to get a better view of the side of the case, and should be able to get in thru there, after removing the blower ducts etc.. But I see no need to remove the dash.."

Is it possible that Mitchel means an additional hour added to the first six?


Bohica,


The first four steps are done.

"Drain Hose"
See Above. No actual drain hose.

"ECU connector"

Sorry about my ignorance but what is ECU connector?

"Disconnect blower duct joints"

Outlet (exhaust) of blower plugs directly into evaporator case Evaporator case is in two halves around the blower outlet. Held by the previously discussed clips. One of which is shown in dwgs. But can't be located or reached.

"Remove nuts"

Not sure which nuts you mean?

"Remove evaporator case from car "

Boy! Wouldn't I like to!


Re. the refrigerant. That has been dealt with. I have a friend who is helping me with general advice and equipment that I don't yet own.

This whole thing looks hard to me. The rest of the job is cake by comparison.

I'm going to look at Alldata some more.

As previously stated any and all suggestions or help appreciated.

THX









Edited: Sun February 17, 2008 at 3:18 PM by AC Amiture

bohica2xo on Sun February 17, 2008 4:22 PM User is offline

The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) in this case is actually mounted on the outside of the evaporator suitcase. The thermistor cable runs down the front of the case & eteres at the mating flange. Be careful not to damage the ECU, or the probe.

You do not seperate the evaporator case halves in the car. This is done on the bench.

You must disconnect the refrigerant lines under the hood.

The nuts are located top & bottom on each end of the evaporator case. It clamps together around the blower connection & the heat/air distributor connection as a pair of "L" shapes. The nuts are on the firewall side, sometimes a mirror helps with locating them. Remove all 4, and there should be enough flex to remove the evaporator case.

On a mirage with no A/C, there is a dummy box connecting the blower housing & heater assy. & it can be removed to add A/C without pulling the dash.

A heater core replacment does require removal of the instrument panel however...

B.

-------------------------
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

AC Amiture on Sun February 17, 2008 4:52 PM User is offline

Bohica,

Thanks for the additionall information.

"The nuts are located top & bottom on each end of the evaporator case. It clamps together around the blower connection & the heat/air distributor connection as a pair of "L" shapes. The nuts are on the firewall side, sometimes a mirror helps with locating them. Remove all 4, and there should be enough flex to remove the evaporator case. "

I have the AllData drawings to help me see what you are talking about but seeing these nuts, let alone, putting a tool on them or even toucng them is a dunting proposition. However, I don't want to take out the dash and If you say it can be done I'll keep trying (just harder). If you are that sort of guy pray for me I think I need it.

Thanks

AC Amiture on Sun February 17, 2008 5:52 PM User is offline

Well.

EURIKA! It's out! Thanks for all of your help!

bohica2xo on Sun February 17, 2008 8:13 PM User is offline

You are welcome. I never said it was easy, just that it can be done... Still beats the dash R&R.

B.

-------------------------
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

AC Amiture on Tue February 19, 2008 11:57 AM User is offline

Well now it's back in. Thats harder than getting it out! If I can get to it, I'll write up a few notes that might help anyone who is searching for info in the future.

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