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Is my vehicle converted to R134a??

n0j0c0 on Thu April 10, 2008 4:58 PM User is offline

Year: 1992
Make: Chevrolet
Model: G20 Cargo Van
Engine Size: 350

Hello -

I have a 1992 Chevrolet G20 Cargo van. A sticker on the outside of the A/C unit indicates that is is an R-12 system. However, a mechanic told me that I could verify if it was R-12 or if it has been converted to R134a. He mentioned checking the size of the "ports" on the refrigerant lines... the "ports" covered by the black screw caps. I took off the black plastic screw caps, but I'm not sure if what I am looking is the large or small "ports".

Is this the only way to determine if an A/C system has been converted to R134a?

Thank you for the help!

Rob

Chick on Thu April 10, 2008 5:19 PM User is offlineView users profile

The only way to be sure is with a refrigerant identifier, but as far as the ports, when you remove the black caps, are the threads on the outside of the fittings? Is so, they are R12 ports, if the cap screws into the "inside" of the service port, they are retrofit fittings..

The below pic shows a R134a fitting, the threaded part goes into the line but you'll notice that the port is not threaded as it would be on an R12 fitting


But again, the only way to know for sure what is in your system is a refrigerant identifier, or have the system recovered and then you can retrofit, or put it back to R12.. Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

n0j0c0 on Thu April 10, 2008 7:32 PM User is offline

Thank you very much for the explanation and the photo Chick! This was very informative. I just checked my van; everything you mentioned is leaning heavy on the Van's A/C system being R-12. i.e. the threads are on the outside of the fittings. Looks like I may need to upgrade the system.

What started my inquiry into this matter was the system has been running fine for many years, but recently it stopped producing cold air; though, everything appeared to be running fine. I called around to have the system recharged, but was asked which system I had (R12, R134a). I didn't know that R-12 is no longer used in vehicles!

Thanks again for your assistance!

Rob

Chick on Thu April 10, 2008 9:10 PM User is offlineView users profile

Keep calling, R12 is still readily available, just that many shops don't want to use it. Find a shop that specializes in Ac repair. They will have R12. You can post your location and maybe someone can recommend a shop for you.. If you are just low, a top off with R12 is the way to go....Hope this helps..

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

mk378 on Thu April 10, 2008 11:05 PM User is offline

R-12 is still available to use in old cars. It costs (wholesale) about 10 times what R-134a does though. That's why they wanted to know which one you needed before talking about the price to recharge. The high cost makes it worthwhile to find the leak if you keep using R-12. The compressor shaft seal is a common problem. Once it starts to leak, it will just get worse over time.

Many of the GM trucks do not work very well converted to R-134a. If you're in a hot climate you'd be happier keeping it R-12.

Edited: Thu April 10, 2008 at 11:05 PM by mk378

n0j0c0 on Fri April 11, 2008 7:23 AM User is offline

Thanks guys. This has been all new to me. I appreciate your sharing of knowledge!

NickD on Fri April 11, 2008 9:47 AM User is offline

Still don't know until you have it identified with all of the paraphernalia available from X-Mart with the charm additives, a mess both created and uncontrolled by the EPA. Used car dealers are notorious as well as private owners for even topping these systems off with R-134a, just enough to get it off the lot. For tools, a can opener doesn't know the difference between a can of R-12 or R-134a.

R-12 is not that bad to buy with a 609 certificate, and if your system is virgin, losing an ounce or two per year is also common, multiply that by 16 years, can add up, have to do a good leak test and check for any oil leaks. But should get your refrigerant identified first.



A little pricey for the DIYer, find a good shop that won't rob you, only takes a couple of seconds.

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