Year: 2002
Make: Buick
Model: Century
Engine Size: 3.1 L
Refrigerant Type: R-134A
Country of Origin: United States
It looks like I will have to remove the power brake vacuum booster in order to replace the Orifice Tube ( air conditioner ) .
How do you go about removing it ?
I can see that I will have to un-bolt the master cylinder from the booster . What next ?
Thanks ,
Wyr
I thought GM Tech said it was the ABS hydraulic box that has to come out.
Well ...........
It may or may not have to come out also ??????????
But the OT is to the right ( facing the engine ) of the booster , in the corner formed by the fire wall , fender and wheel liner .
I am hoping to just unbolt the master cylinder and move it forward a little , allowing me to remove the booster .
May not turn out that way ?
But it is not under the ABS modulator / assembly .
Thanks ,
Wyr
Here is the procedure for the orifice tube you wanted - looks like fun and BY THE WAY it is not a standard OT- probably a dealer only item.
Here is the OT
Expansion (Orifice) Tube Replacement
Tools Required
⢠J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
⢠J 26549-E Orifice Tube Remover
Removal Procedure
Remove the condenser tube. Refer to Condenser Tube Replacement
Condenser Tube Replacement
Tools Required
J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
Removal Procedure
Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls-3.1L or Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls-3.8L.
Remove the cross vehicle brace. Refer to Cross Vehicle Brace Replacement in Body Front End.
Remove the vacuum brake booster. Refer to Power Vacuum Brake Booster Replacement in Hydraulic Brakes.
Remove the accumulator tube clip.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the lower radiator air baffle. Refer to Radiator Air Lower Baffle and Deflector Replacement in Engine Cooling.
Loosen the condenser tube nut at the condenser.
Disconnect the condenser tube from the condenser.
Lower the vehicle.
Disconnect the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor electrical connector.
Loosen the evaporator inlet tube nut.
Disconnect the evaporator tube from the condenser tube.
Important: Use care when removing the condenser tube.
Remove the condenser tube.
Remove and discard the O-ring.
Remove the A/C pressure sensor from the condenser tube.
Use the J - 26549 -E tool to remove the OT.
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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Edited: Fri July 18, 2008 at 2:21 PM by GM Tech
You can get those special GM tubes from just about any AC service/parts house. I've only seen them in grey and black. If I knew how a post a picture, I would. It's just another way GM tries to corner the service parts market. Let me know if you can't find any.
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Ken Kopsky
Custom Car Works
"Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the obedience of fools."
I appreciate the information / instructions .
Does it indicate what size the two fittings are ( what wrench sizes ) to " break the fitting " to seperate the line , where the OT is located ?
I am guessing they are metric ? Probably a trip to the store to get 2 tubing wrenches .
Sounds like something I will start on , early Saturday .
Thank you .
Wyr
Edited: Fri July 18, 2008 at 6:22 PM by WyrTwister
The illustration that was previously posted , looks like the OT I bought ( and still have in the cabinet ) last winter at O'Riley's .
Best I remember , it is gray plastic with a white plastic strainer that looks a little bit like Styrofoam ( but is not ) .
Thanks ,
Wyr
You won't need special wrenches- heck two small adjustables work fine.
-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Large nut should be a 15/16 or the metric equivelant and the small nut thats part of the tube should be a 20mm.
These new tubes are called....PPOT....Porous Plastic Orifice Tube....comes in three colors/sizes
Lite Gray....orifice size =.062
1999-2005 Buick Century, Regal
2000-2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
Dk Gray....orifice size =.072
2006-2007 Chevrolet Avalanche,
Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2006-2007 GMC Sierra, Yukon
2006 Cadillac Escalade
Black....orifice size =.057
For a market 'flooded' with the 'standard' orifice....leave it to GM........heck...gotta make some case.....can't make it with cars!!!!
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson
Well .......
With everyone's help , I got the OT replaced .
It was full of metal cuttings . To the extent that I would not be surprised if there is sufficient cuttings left in the system to stop it up again .
Not easy by any means . But not quite as bad as I feared .
Did not have to remove / loosen / break any brake lines .
The booster did not have enough room to remove it from the engine compartment , but I had enough room to move it aside . That made enough room to get to the 2 fittings .
Bought a new O-Ring to put on the fitting . Bout an 8 oz. can of PAG 150 to lubricate that O-Ring and the 2 O-Rings that were on the OT .
It is not cooling as well as I would like , around 50 degrees . I have read to expect 40 degrees ? About 95 degreed ambient and almost 100 degrees 2 inches in front of the condenser . Pressure higher than I would like . About 45 / 220 .
But it is COOLING ! Wifey is happier . :-)
I think the O'Riley compressor has a 12 month warranty .
If it goes out again , I will be a little more experienced . ( Are the Chi-Com compressors any good ? )
Ended up using a 15/16" wrench and a Crescent . Bought a new set of metric combination wrenches , but neither the 22mm or the 24mm would fit ?
Thanks ,
Wyr
Edited: Sat July 19, 2008 at 10:03 PM by WyrTwister
If there were a lot of metal shaving on that O tube, that would have been the time to flush the condenser..Hopefully it will not clog up again..If it does, flush or change the condenser..Hope this helps..
-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick
---------------------------------------------
Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
So the procedure is to remove master cylinder and then loosen the rake booster line and move to side to get to orifice tube?
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