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GMC Suburban 1994 AC compressor Pages: 12

Cussboy on Fri November 13, 2009 3:15 PM User is offline

Year: 1994
Make: GMC
Model: Suburban
Engine Size: 5.7
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Country of Origin: United States

GMC Suburban 1994 AC compressor, R4 compressor, dual air, 196K miles, leaks from compressor body. I've had this Suburban since 2000; it's on its 3rd compressor all told, all were brand new, all three had body leakage. Tim or Jack (or anyone else) - do you feel #000131CP rebuilt compressor is worth a try for me (you sell it), or do I absolutely need to go brand-new only?

I've used rebuilt compressors from you on my own import truck and on a friend's car, and both worked fine. I don't plan on keeping the Suburban more than 2 more years. Thanks.

JACK ADAMS on Fri November 13, 2009 4:04 PM User is offline

For my personal applications, I would suggest new if all possible. The R4 compressor has had this problem for many years and the longer they are on the more they leak. If you plan on keeping the Suburban, than you may want to try doing a Seltec conversion. We offer a mount kit that fits in the OEM saddle for the R4. Here is the 4219 Mount Kit. Just an option to think about! You will have to modify the hoses to fit but may be well worth it.

TRB on Fri November 13, 2009 5:03 PM User is offlineView users profile

While we have very good results with the company we use for re-manufactured compressors. When it come to the R4, I always suggest new as Jack has mentioned.

-------------------------

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Cussboy on Fri November 13, 2009 9:33 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: JACK ADAMS
You will have to modify the hoses to fit but may be well worth it.

I think modifying the hoses puts this out of contention for me. Have you had complaints about your rebuilt R4 compressors, or do you mainly talk customers away from them???



Edited: Fri November 13, 2009 at 9:33 PM by Cussboy

TRB on Fri November 13, 2009 9:39 PM User is offlineView users profile

No complaints at all. Just prefer new on the R4 as well as with the FS10.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Cussboy on Fri November 13, 2009 9:56 PM User is offline

For those interested, here's the AC compressor history on my '94 Suburban:

We bought it in November 2000 with original compressor cooling well, but making noise; we informed the owner, who dropped the price, so we we didn't use the AC. March 2001 mechanic installed new compressor with accumulator and orifice tube (the original orifice tube was not gunked up).

2005 again new compressor installed.

2009: compressor leaks.

So it looks like 4 years is about the expected lifetime for these R4 compressors on dual air Suburban. 196K miles is a lot to do a major costing upgrade like the Seltec/Sandan upgrade.

Edited: Fri November 13, 2009 at 9:57 PM by Cussboy

chris142 on Sat November 14, 2009 10:17 PM User is offline

Does the sponsor offer those aftermarket compressors that have a 1 piece body? They can't leak if they don't have any seals.

iceman2555 on Sun November 15, 2009 9:24 PM User is offlineView users profile

I find it very strange that you have encountered this many case leaks on this compressor. Have been exposed to this model compressor for more years that I care to talk about and more of these units that the average tech will encountered in the normal operation of his business. This is not a common 'warranty' issue for these units. Considering the number used and the time span for replacement, it would behoove you to take a closer look at possible installation procedures.
GM also had a service bulletin on this vehicle, although not for this particular problem. The tech bulletin was concerning possible liquid return to the compressor due to a problem with the rear TXV. GMTech may know more, but I think it involved the placement and attachment of the sensor of the TXV. Possible insulation problems. It is possible liquid refrigerant is being returned to the compressor then the seals could possibly developed leaks.
It is known that the R4 has, in the past, experienced this problem, however, can not remember a single unit that has crossed my test bench in the last few years. I do get some returns that signify this as a problem. However, after two different type of leak testing, they do not indicate this problem. Seeing dye in this area is not an uncommon problem, but this does not always indicate a true leak in the area. ORings will 'roll' under certain conditions and move lube/dye to the fore front and then seat themselves and never actually leak refrigerant.
There should be no distinct advantage of a reman'd unit in this aspect. Most of the quality reman mfger's will use a quality seal in this area.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

Cussboy on Mon November 16, 2009 2:40 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: iceman2555
I find it very strange that you have encountered this many case leaks on this compressor.

Remember, I'm in Arizona, so the AC is only used 99% of the time.....

iceman2555 on Mon November 16, 2009 5:52 PM User is offlineView users profile

Location means very little to this problem as far as my statement. Numerous compressor pass thru my teams hands each year for failure analysis and many are from your area and other 'heat soak' areas. My sentiments remain the same. Four compressors with the same failure is such a 'short' life cycle points to possible other problems. The failure rate on your vehicle at this point is 100% and that is quite extreme. One every three years is not 'norm' by any manufacturers standards....even 4Seizens!!!
I maintain that a very through examination of the system, repair procedures and installation procedures should be accomplished and completed prior to the installation of an other compressor. If the current compressor is no longer functioning, then this evaluation should be part of the new replacement procedures and the after repair evaluation of the new unit.
Good luck!!!

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

Cussboy on Mon November 16, 2009 7:17 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: Cussboy


Remember, I'm in Arizona, so the AC is only used 99% of the time.....

I'm saying that the AC gets used more hours per year here than in most climates.





Edited: Mon November 16, 2009 at 7:17 PM by Cussboy

TRB on Mon November 16, 2009 8:47 PM User is offlineView users profile

People can debate me if they like but I feel the R4 should never have been used on the dual unit suburbans or vans. I do recall reading something about the oil return being one issue.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

GM Tech on Tue November 17, 2009 1:37 PM User is offline

The R-4 is very susceptible to "wash-outs" where liquid refrigerant gets into the compressor and cleanses it of oil while running- the dual systems were the worst, due to the rear TXV allowing liquid through it, WHEN REAR A/C WAS OFF. and front was on. There was a TSB on 94 and 95's- to replace and reposition rear TXV sensing bulb to allow rear TXV to shut down when rear blower was off---did your suburban ever get this done? This alone could be the reason for the continuing failures.

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Cussboy on Tue November 17, 2009 2:10 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: GM Tech
There was a TSB on 94 and 95's- to replace and reposition rear TXV sensing bulb to allow rear TXV to shut down when rear blower was off---did your suburban ever get this done? This alone could be the reason for the continuing failures.

No, the rear AC has never been opened, I've seen the rear casing on it. We bought the '94 in late 2000, never got a recall notice, is a TSB like a recall (I know it's a Technical service Bulletin, don't know how that works)? The compressor was changed twice by a non-dealer shop.





Edited: Tue November 17, 2009 at 2:12 PM by Cussboy

TRB on Tue November 17, 2009 2:25 PM User is offlineView users profile

I would be concerned that the rear system was not flushed correctly on top of some other issues mentioned. Many shops don;t care to put in the extra work needed on these dual unit systems.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Cussboy on Tue November 17, 2009 7:16 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
I would be concerned that the rear system was not flushed correctly on top of some other issues mentioned. Many shops don;t care to put in the extra work needed on these dual unit systems.

Tim - at least since I've owned it, the system has never been solvent-flushed (front or rear). The rear AC case has never been cracked open. The mechanic inspected the orifice tube, it was pristine, so he didn't feel a solvent flush was warranted. Maybe that job wasn't as thourough as it should have been....

Now on my '88 B2200 truck - which by that time (2004) I was doing my AC work myself - I DID solvent backflush the condenser and high-pressure line all the way back.

By the way, here's what local talk show mechanic Mark Salem states about rear AC:
http://www.salemboysauto.com/original-faqs/faq-35.htm
"If you are using your A/C and have rear air conditioning, NEVER shut the rear blower off and never run it on low speed. If you get too cold, don't shut that rear blower off or put the fan speed on low, open a window and mix some warm air with the cold air inside. As a matter of fact, if I were King, I would eliminate low speed on all rear fans, during use of the air conditioning . . . and here's why.

The air conditioning compressor cannot handle liquid on the suction side. So the front AC unit dumps or sends it's refrigerant (or Freon) back to the compressor via a can called an accumulator where any liquid left falls to the bottom and the gas rises to the top and then is fed back to the compressor. This is important because the compressor cannot compress a liquid, only a gas.

The rear AC unit has no such can or accumulator so unless we turn the liquid to a vapor, (or evaporate) the Freon in the rear air conditioning unit by using the rear fan, all we end up feeding the air conditioning compressor from the back air conditioning unit is liquid Freon which wipes it out. The air conditioning compressor cannot handle sucking in a liquid and compressing it, it can only handle or compress a vapor. That's exactly why so many rear air conditioned vans, Suburbans, Explorers and other SUVs have major air conditioning problems year in and year out.

This isn't a new problem, however, it's been only recently that GM has determined that the absence of an accumulator for the rear air conditioning unit can and will cause these problems. They always thought folks would use the heck out of the rear air conditioning and never considered the drivers would run with the rear unit fan shut off.

So wives, tell your husband to stop running the air conditioning with the rear blower on off or on low. Tell him to run the fan on medium to high."




Edited: Tue November 17, 2009 at 7:19 PM by Cussboy

GM Tech on Tue November 17, 2009 10:58 PM User is offline

Here is the above mentioned TSB


LOUD KNOCK FROM A/C COMPRESSOR #56-12-01
SUBJECT: LOUD KNOCK FROM A/C COMPRESSOR (REPLACE COMPRESSOR AND THERMAL EXPANSION VALVE)
MODELS: 1994-95 CHEVROLET AND GMC C/K MODELS WITH REAR A/C (RPO C69) OR REAR HEATER AND A/C (RPOS C36,C69) BUILT BEFORE THE FOLLOWING VIN BREAKPOINTS:
DIVISION VIN CHEVROLET SJ300349 GMC TRUCK SJ701253
CONDITION:
SOME OWNER'S OF THE ABOVE LISTED VEHICLES MAY COMMENT THAT THE A/C COMPRESSOR HAS DEVELOPED A LOUD KNOCKING NOISE. THE A/C SYSTEM WILL CONTINUE TO COOL.
CAUSE:
WHEN THE REAR A/C SYSTEM IS SHUT OFF, A REFRIGERANT FLOOD BACK CONDITION MAY OCCUR THROUGH THE REAR A/C SYSTEM. THIS FLOODING DEGREASES THE INTERNAL PARTS OF THE COMPRESSOR RESULTING IN RAPID SLIDER BLOCK WEAR AND THE RESULTING LOUD KNOCKING NOISE. A POOR CONTACT BETWEEN THE TXV CAPILLARY TUBE AND THE REAR EVAPORATOR OUTLET TUBE CAN ALLOW THE TXV TO REMAIN OPEN WHEN THE REAR SYSTEM IS NOT IN USE. THE OPEN TXV MAY ALLOW LIQUID REFRIGERANT TO FLOOD BACK THROUGH THE REAR SYSTEM (LIQUID LINE, TXV, EVAPORATOR, REAR SUCTION LINE) AND SUBSEQUENTLY FLOOD THE COMPRESSOR.
CORRECTION:
REPLACE THE A/C COMPRESSOR, THE THERMAL EXPANSION VALVE (TXV), AND ADD AN IN-LINE FILTER.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. RECOVER THE R-134A REFRIGERANT CHARGE (SECTION 1-B OF SERVICE MANUAL). 2. REPLACE THE COMPRESSOR AND BALANCE THE PAG LUBRICANT IN THE SYSTEM FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURES IN THE VEHICLE SERVICE MANUAL. 3. INSTALL AN IN-LINE FILTER IN THE LIQUID LINE AFTER THE CONDENSER AND BEFORE THE "Y" IN THE LINE SEPARATING THE FRONT AND REAR SYSTEMS. 4. REMOVE, INSPECT AND CLEAN THE ORIFICE TUBE FOR THE FRONT SYSTEM. IT IS LOCATED IN THE LIQUID LINE AFTER THE "Y" JOINT. 5. REPLACE THE ORIFICE TUBE. 6. DISCONNECT SEAT BELT AND REMOVE REAR BENCH SEAT. 7. REMOVE THE RIGHT SECOND PASSENGER SEAT SHOULDER BELT RETAINER FROM THE RIGHT SIDE C-PILLAR. 8. REMOVE THE (5) SCREWS FROM THE RIGHT SIDE C-PILLAR TRIM. 9. REMOVE THE (2) SCREWS SECURING THE RIGHT SIDE LOWER TRIM PANEL TO THE C-PILLAR. 10. REMOVE THE (5) SCREWS SECURING THE D-PILLAR COVERS. 11. LIFT THE RIGHT SIDE LOWER TRIM PANEL AND ROLL FORWARD TO REMOVE, THIS EXPOSES THE REAR HVAC EVAPORATOR CASE MODULE. 12. USING TEMPLATE (FIG. 4), MARK CUTTING LINES ON THE UPPER EVAPORATOR CASE USING A CHINA MARKER OR EQUIVALENT. DO NOT REMOVE THE LOCATING TABS FROM THE TEMPLATES, THEY ARE NEEDED TO POSITION THE CUT AREA FOR THE ACCESS DOORS. (FIG. 1). 13. USING TEMPLATE (FIG. 5), MARK CUTTING LINES ON THE LOWER EVAPORATOR CASE USING A CHINA MARKER OR EQUIVALENT. (FIG. 1). 14. CUT THROUGH THE PLASTIC UPPER EVAPORATOR CASE AND THE LOWER EVAPORATOR CASE FOLLOWING THE MARKED OUTLINES OF THE TEMPLATES TO CREATE TWO ACCESS DOORS (FIG. 1). DO NOT CUT REAR EDGE OF EITHER ACCESS DOOR (FIG. 4 AND 5). USE A HOT KNIFE OR A SMALL (1/2" DIA.) ROTARY ABRASIVE CUTTING WHEEL.
NOTICE: CUT THROUGH PLASTIC CASE MATERIAL ONLY. ALUMINUM TUBES ARE LOCATED APPROXIMATELY 1/8" BEHIND THE CASE WALL (FIG. 2, VIEW 1). DO NOT USE A LARGER DIAMETER CUTTING WHEEL.
15. USING A HEAT GUN TO SOFTEN THE PLASTIC CASE, PULL BACK THE ACCESS DOOR ON THE UPPER EVAPORATOR CASE CAREFULLY TO PREVENT BREAKING THE CASE. REACH IN CAREFULLY AND REMOVE THE HOLDING CLAMP SECURING THE CAPILLARY TUBE TO THE EVAPORATOR OUTLET TUBE. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE CAPILLARY TUBE. DISCARD CLAMP. 16. USING A HEAT GUN TO SOFTEN THE PLASTIC CASE, PULL BACK THE ACCESS DOOR ON THE LOWER EVAPORATOR CASE CAREFULLY TO PREVENT BREAKING THE CASE (FIG. 2). REACH IN CAREFULLY WITH TWO SMALL ADJUSTABLE WRENCHES AND LOOSEN THE FITTING ATTACHING THE TXV TO THE EVAPORATOR INLET TUBE. IT WILL REQUIRE A 7/8" CROWS FOOT EXTENSION TO LOOSEN THE TXV OUTLET JOINT FITTING HIDDEN BEHIND THE TXV ITSELF. REMOVE AND DISCARD THE TXV. 17. REMOVE ORIGINAL O-RINGS FROM THE EVAPORATOR TUBES AND REPLACE WITH NEW O-RINGS THAT HAVE BEEN OILED WITH 525 VISCOSITY REFRIGERANT MINERAL OIL. DO NOT USE PAG LUBRICANT. 18. INSTALL THE NEW TXV TO THE EVAPORATOR TUBES BEING CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE O-RINGS. FINGER TIGHTEN THE JOINTS AND THEN TORQUE THE JOINTS, USING A BACKUP WRENCH TO HOLD THE TXV IN POSITION TO: INLET 20-35 N.M 14-25 LB.FT. OUTLET 15-22 N.M 11-16 LB.FT. 19. PULL BACK ACCESS DOOR ON THE UPPER EVAPORATOR CASE CAREFULLY TO PREVENT BREAKING THE CASE (FIG. 1). ALIGN THE TXV CAPILLARY AGAINST THE EVAPORATOR OUTLET TUBE BEING SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE CAPILLARY LINE. PLACE THE FIRST HOLDING CLAMP SO IT IS LOCATED 1/4" OR LESS BELOW THE CRIMP IN THE CAPILLARY TUBE (FIGURE 3). INSTALL THE SECOND CLAMP 1/4" OR LESS BELOW THE FIRST CLAMP. BE SURE THE CLAMPS ARE FULLY SEATED ON THE TUBE AND THAT THE CAPILLARY IS RETAINED IN THE FORMED SEAT OF EACH CLAMP (FIG. 3, SECTION 1-1).
NOTICE: AFTER ALL COMPONENTS ARE INSTALLED, EVACUATE AND CHARGE THE A/C SYSTEM. LEAK TEST ALL JOINTS THAT WERE OPENED.
20. USING A HEAT GUN TO SOFTEN THE PLASTIC CASE, CLOSE BOTH ACCESS DOORS AND ALIGN THE EDGES OF THE PLASTIC. USING A SOLDERING GUN, MELT BOTH EDGES OF THE CASE TOGETHER ALONG THE FULL LENGTH OF THE CUTS, AS SMOOTHLY AS POSSIBLE. 21. COVER THE SOLDERED CLOSURES WITH DUCT TAPE TO PREVENT AIR LEAKAGE. 22. REINSTALL THE RIGHT SIDE TRIM PANEL, THE D-PILLAR TRIM, THE C- PILLAR TRIM, THE C-PILLAR SEAT BELT RETAINER AND THE REAR BENCH SEAT.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N DESCRIPTION QTY 52450767 OR 52470592 FILTER 1 1134328 COMPRESSOR 1 52469382 THERMAL EXPANSION VALVE 1 3096068 ORIFICE TUBE 1
PARTS ARE CURRENTLY AVAILABLE FROM GMSPO.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE:
LABOR OP DESCRIPTION LABOR TIME USE PUBLISHED D4440 COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY-REPLACE LABOR OPERATION TIME
D3220 VALVE, EXPANSION-REPLACE 1.7 HRS.
FIGURES: 5
CAPTIONS: FIGURE 1 - EVAPORATOR CASE MODULE, TEMPLATE PLACEMENT 1. UPPER EVAPORATOR CASE 3. UPPER TEMPLATE PLACEMENT 2. LOWER EVAPORATOR CASE 4. LOWER TEMPLATE PLACEMENT
FIGURE 2 - ACCESS TO TXV AND CAPILLARY HOLDING CLAMP 1. TXV 3. HOLDING CLAMP 2. A/C TUBE 4. CASE WALL
FIGURE 3 - PLACEMENT OF HOLDING CLAMPS 1. A/C TUBE 4. SECONDARY HOLDING CLAMP 2. CAPILLARY CRIMP 5. CAPILLARY TUBE 3. PRIMARY HOLDING CLAMP 6. TXV
FIGURE 4 - UPPER EVAPORATOR CASE TEMPLATE
FIGURE 5 - LOWER EVAPORATOR CASE TEMPLATE
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 5
GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.
COPYRIGHT 1995 GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.



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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

TRB on Tue November 17, 2009 11:10 PM User is offlineView users profile

GMtech, if you like, start a separate thread and repost that information. I'll then move it to the tips forum under your name for future reference.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Cussboy on Wed November 18, 2009 9:55 AM User is offline

Tim - if you follow this link and click, there are also drawings with it. Same/similar info as with GM Tech post.

http://www.alldata.com/service_provider/techrx/2001/20010703f.html



GM Tech - does this mean that because there's a TSB that GM would fix it as per warranty/defect if brought to their attention?



Edited: Wed November 18, 2009 at 9:58 AM by Cussboy

TRB on Wed November 18, 2009 10:09 AM User is offlineView users profile

If I wanted I could just cut and paste the information GMTech has posted. I just prefer to have others recognized for the data they bring to the forum. I can't move just GMTech's post (middle of thread) so it would be easiest to just have him start a new thread and then I can move it over.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

JACK ADAMS on Thu November 19, 2009 11:31 AM User is offline

I find a flaw in that TSB; they do not mention anything about Flushing the rear evaporator assembly!! Do they not expect any debris to reach the coil? In-line filters are a preventative not a cure all. What about the excess/contaminated oil? I have always thought that most TSB’s only give partial info and just think most techs should know that this should be done anyway as a rule of thumb.
Just my two cents!

P.S. Just because there is a TSB (Tech Support Bulletin) on a certain issue doesn’t mean the dealer will do it for free, that would be is a “Recall”.

HECAT on Thu November 19, 2009 1:42 PM User is offline

Jack,

The TSB referenced by GMTech (Pub date 1995-02-13) was issued before GM would even acknowledge flushing was needed, and it does reference that the system is still operating not failed. The liquid line filter, OT screen, TXV inlet screen, and suction screens were, and still are, the GM prescribed solution.

GMTech is very adamant that he does not flush, and this has worked well for him for years; and I have no reason to, and do not wish to argue that point. With no intended disrespect, I can only say that if my compressor was replaced under warranty, and took a crap again just after the warranty ended, I would not be returning to that dealer to have it repaired again.

With the introduction of a new GM (SPX) RRR machine (ACR2000) that had a 134 flush feature, along came the TSB (pub date 2004-09-14) that covered flushing. It flushes the system thru the compressor suction and pressure line connections. It basically states that it will remove most oil and little debris and the filters should always be used. To perform this flush requires prior district service approval and has no set labor schedule for performing the service. No matter how much metallic debris is there, and the statement that it will not be all removed; filters are the answer, and no where that I could see does it ever comment that a condenser should be replaced because of entrapped debris that this method does not remove.

Go to Mitchell, 1994 Suburban, TSB, A/C compressor, (flushing) pub date 2004-09-14; and read it yourself.

In your Phoenix climate, I am sure you can understand how readily 134 would gas when trying to perform flushing with this method, and I am sure we would be very impressed with the velocity of the flow rate (not). When I questioned GM engineering contacts regarding the crappy performance of this flush method; the answers I got was the use of filters cover the debris issue, and the potential for up to 80% oil removal is good enough. Then there was a smart a** comment that definitely took me back; something to effect that technicians (meaning GM techs) were not smart enough to understand or use a process such as ours, where the go or no go decisions were to be in their hands. I have formulated the opinion from this, that GM and other OE's do not see the need for flushing to get a vehicle through a warranty period; and that OE TSB's and other service procedures are not written for smart technicians to be allowed to make judgement calls.

I once used a R4 as boat anchor for my two man john boat; it worked great! Back in the day when I was still working on cars daily, we always replaced them with an A6 whenever possible.

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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 


Edited: Thu November 19, 2009 at 1:45 PM by HECAT

JACK ADAMS on Thu November 19, 2009 2:23 PM User is offline

As long as we are on the same page, regards to flushing a system with any type of compressor job (failure or not)! Debris is debris no matter what…. If it is still in a system it can still cause a problem. Contaminated oil will do the same, clean or not. We do not have the analysis machine to test every oil sample of a compressor failure that’s why we flush and flush again for a clean environment for the replacement parts. That is just the way we do it in our shop

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