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Old Dryer

RonHardy on Mon July 16, 2012 1:28 AM User is offline

Year: 1999
Make: Chevy
Model: Tahoe
Country of Origin: United States

I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe that has a leak in the compressor. It works when vacuumed and charged but after a few days it losses it's charge and stops blowing cool air. I'm willing to replace the system but am having trouble getting the dryer off the evaporator coil in the dash. The two nuts seem to be "welded together". So far I haven't broken the coil but I'm very close to twisting it too much and perhaps breaking it. I'm not in a hurry to replace the coil so I'm wondering if I could leave the old dryer in place and just replace the compressor and orifice. I don't like doing a job poorly but I'm only trying to get a couple of more summers out of this car.

However, I also don't want to throw good money after bad if replacing the compressor without replacing the dryer is a waste of time. Thoughts?

Any tips on getting these two parts apart? Heat?
How hard to replace the coil if I need to? Instructions?

Thanks for the help ahead of time.
Ron

This car only has front a/c.
In an effort to stop the leak I also used a can of "leak stop".

doctorbee on Mon July 16, 2012 2:10 AM User is offline

make sure your system is discharged, heat up the nuts with a propane torch and have at them with an impact wrench or with a ratchet using sharp, quick blows and 6 point socket

Dougflas on Mon July 16, 2012 5:37 AM User is offline

you could drill a small hole in the nut's side only drilling the nut and not the evap's material. Then squirt a penetrating fluid ( I use a product called "KROIL") amd let it soak a few hours and then squirt some more. After a while, it may come loose. Heating the nut may also help.

RonHardy on Mon July 16, 2012 8:28 AM User is offline

Thank you for the info. Any advice regarding just leaving the old dryer in place?

GM Tech on Mon July 16, 2012 9:12 AM User is offline

So why are you changing the dryer? For a leak, I never change dryers-- heck, I ran sheriff's cars in Texas with no dessicant in dryers for years with no noticeable side effects..I only change dryers to convert from R-12 or in the case of a castastrophic mechanical failure. You are wasting your time. They say you need it for the warranty- right-- so p*ss on their warranty- buy only the compressor... or reseal your old one- for the price of 4 o-rings....and some tools....

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

RonHardy on Mon July 16, 2012 9:41 AM User is offline

Thanks GM Tech,
That's my question exactly. The leak is so small that an auto shop barely sees the dye marker on the top of the compressor.

So your advice would be to replace the o rings on the top of the compressor and see if that fixes the leaks? I would then pull a vacuum and see if it holds? That's certainly a better answer than replacing the system, if it works.
Should I replace the orifice tube just because I used some "stop leak"?

GM Tech on Mon July 16, 2012 10:56 AM User is offline

never use stop leak!!!!!! If head pressure skyrockets then replace OT.......that connection can be just as bad as the dryer connection to break loose....

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

RonHardy on Mon July 16, 2012 12:04 PM User is offline

Unfortunately I used the leak stop a couple of 3 years ago and aside from replacing the entire system there's not much I can do about it now.
Can I run the dye kit in it now to find the leak without any 134a (which has likely completely leaked out by now- 2years)?

GM Tech on Mon July 16, 2012 12:39 PM User is offline

You said the compressor was leaking--what another leak now??? Fix the compressor or replace it....

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

RonHardy on Mon July 16, 2012 2:03 PM User is offline

The leak stop was three years ago. It didn't work. The leak was detected two years ago but I've forgotten for sure where it is so I want to retest it with the dye if possible. The shop never really found the leak, they kinda sort of think it was coming from the high/low port block because it may have a little dye showing. Or that's what they told me.
I muddled though because this was a second car but now it may become my first car again if I get the ac fixed.

RonHardy on Mon July 16, 2012 2:18 PM User is offline

So my questions are this.
1) can I retest the system with dye and no refrigerant to verify the leak location?
2) if the leak is under the high / low port block is that just replace the o rings, vacuum and refrigerant?
3) if it leaks somewhere else on the compressor I'll just replace the compressor and vacuum , refrigerant and oil? I'll leave the old dryer and OT so I don't tear up the evaporator coil.
Really appreciate the advice!

GM Tech on Mon July 16, 2012 10:40 PM User is offline

once dye is installed no need to re-install- but you need refrigerant in it to spot leak-- dye fades in about 3 weeks time- no need to ever clean off old dye stains

Compressor block fitting uses sealing washers, not o-rings- and yes it is always best to replace them

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

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