Year: 2007
Make: Chevy
Model: Tahoe
Engine Size: 5.3
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Hi everyone, i'm looking for some guidance on repairing my truck's AC, apparently there's a leak in the "rear end". I took a picture - http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/Rear AC Lines_crop.JPG , I assume this is where the leak is, is this common? They charged me $100 for that so far.
Where should I go from there? Take this fitting off? Check the o-rings maybe?
Perhaps since the R134a is already leaked out there's no need for recovery?
Thanks!
Oh, and I think I know what I"m getting into, i.e. the next steps might be for me to get a gauge manifold and vacuum pump off ebay, perhaps a leak detection kit, and then new oil and/or refrigerant.
But I'd like to start at the beginning with some guidance on that leak since the garage was talking about $2000 to replace the entire line I think.
why not check out this forum for your equipment needs instead of some junk of ebay?
Nothing in the picture seems obviously leaky. Looks like the whole area has been doused with water. Take one of the service caps off and see if you already have dye in the lines (often installed at the factory). If you do you may see the same yellow-green color around leaks, it glows bright green under a blacklight.
I agree with Dougflas about the no-name tools. The fittings that couple the hoses onto the car are often a problem on cheap sets. Also do not buy an air-powered vacuum pump, they do not develop sufficient vacuum. You need one with an electric motor.
Edited: Sat August 10, 2013 at 9:29 AM by mk378
Thanks, another question if you don't mind...
The truck is 2007, the refrigerant is R134a which is marked on all the hoses, and PAG oil I assume in the compressor. I can't easily get R134a.
Anyone use R12a from RedTek to replace the R134a?
From their website:
RedTek is "a direct replacement and retrofit refrigerant option for replacing R134a and R12 refrigerants in automotive air conditioning. 12a operates at lower head pressures and offers improved cooling properties and performance verses R134a and R12. Compatibility: Compatible with most common refrigeration materials and lubricants including R134a, R12, metal components, mineral and synthetic(Ester and PAG) lubricants, seals, gaskets, hoses, compressors, and o-rings."
Thanks guys, you saved me some $$, I was going to get the air powered vacuum pump, not anymore.
Use only R-134a in your truck since that's what it was designed for. HC refrigerant such as RedTek is dangerous, doesn't work properly, and is illegal in some states. Anyone in the USA can buy R-134a without a special license. It's not regulated much. Wisconsin and California have rules about small cans (none in WI, and funky returnable cans in CA), but 30 lb cylinders are still sold there. Ask at the parts store since it's often behind the counter.
Edited: Sat August 10, 2013 at 7:50 PM by mk378
Thanks for the heads up on the refrigerant. I live in Canada, and I'll do a little more work sourcing R134a.
Another question...since the system's blowing warm air, and the garage said there's a leak, can just go ahead and disconnect the rear lines to examine them for the possible cause of the leak (without doing the recovery process)?
Thanks!
I know of some brand name items that were sold on Ebay that went through the Katrina flood?
webbch. Thank you for supporting this forum. We don't run a thousand ads as some do to keep it running. So a few sales is the only thing that keeps this site up and running for others.
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