Year: 2000
Make: Toyota
Model: Yaris verso
Engine Size: 1.3
Country of Origin: United Kingdom
My air con failed in 32 degree heat. much hotter than this UK car is used to.
The air con failed suddenly , I stopped 1 hour later with mild smoke from the drive belt. I stopped for fuel and the drive belt broke.
The compressor wheel was seriously hot. the belt had been well tensioned and in good condition. I suspect it was overheated by the hot pulley wheel.
After a ã200 tow off an Austrian mountain we fitted a shorter drive belt bypassing the air-con pulley
On returning home to the uk there is a melted component on the side of the compressor. The drive wheel on the compressor is rotating freely but it did not when it was seriously hot
There is one wire om the wiring loom to a multi plug, one wire goes to the melted component, via a two wire plug, the other wire goes to earth on the body of the compressor.
What is this component? Could it be the cause of all my trouble? Or do I need a new (used) compressor
It is a denso scs06c 442100 -2060
Thank you Tony
A bit more info... The wires out of the clutch have come out... Overheated? Burnt out., leaving a melted clutch plug and 5 cm of bare wire... :-/
To change the unit, do I need oil as well as a re-gas?
Confused: can you rotate the CENTER part of that compressor pulley (not the outer part where the belt goes) with your hand or a wrench? If you can't, then the compressor is seized, and likely not only will the entire compressor need to be replaced, but also any particulates from its "death" will need to be flushed out of the system and/or parts replaced.
And 32 ðC is nothing - here in Arizona we can hit 46 ðC (115 ðF) in summer heat !!! And don't even ask about the 119 ðF we had here earlier this year, or what the heat record is.
Thanks for the info. The inside and outside of the clutch now rotate with light finger pressure independently from each other.
Although it feels too easy to turn, not like I am moving any pistons.
This usually starts due to failure of the pulley bearing, then the heat from the bad bearing and/or the pulley dragging on the coil melts the coil. If there's still pressure in the lines the compressor may be OK, with access to used parts you could try changing the pulley and coil. But replacing the whole compressor is more certain to get it right the first time.
If you need a coil and pulley, it'll be easier to change the compressor. E-mail the guys at Ackits for a priceon a new or reman compressor, and drier...Do it right and you'll do it once..
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Chick
Email: Chick
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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
Just to conclude this thread.
I had the aircon de-gassed, got a compressor for ã60
Dropped the drivers side under engine cover
Undo 4 bolts
Undo the electric plug
Undo the two compressor pipes
Clean the two compressor sockets and pipes
Fit the pipes
Fit the compressor and 4 bolts
Connect the electrics
Re-gassed checking the visual bubble on the high side connector by right headlight.
Start the car, a/c light still not working
The fuse was blown... Hidden drivers side shelf under the steering wheel behind a grey cover
Replaced fuse
All working.... Running great
Thanks for the assistance of cool runners mobile A/C Southampton 07740948126 (Paul) for gassing and finding fuse
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