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What goes on the port

ceasefire49 on Mon June 16, 2014 4:03 PM User is offline

Year: 1999
Make: GMC
Model: Suburban SLT
Engine Size: 7.4
Refrigerant Type: 134A
Ambient Temp: 100
Country of Origin: United States

Okay here is the question. I replaced all the items on the system except rear evap and valve. New condenser,New Orifice tube,Accumulator,Hoses and Compress. Flushed evap And front lines .loaded the correct amount of pag 46 throughout system. I have evaced the system down. My problem is two fold. What is the switch port for just below the High side presure port (See Attachment) I went to buy a new one and the fellow told me it was a low presure switch is that correct ? Comes off the same harness as the clutch switch. Also see attach. When taking everything apart I took this off of somewhere(see attachment) don't know if it has anything to do with a/C cannout figure out where it goes two wires one black one green..rubber 2 prong male on one side plastic two prong female on the other wit guide and Side clip. Has me stumped. Don't want to put the grille on until I locate where it goes. Pretty dumb huh? But the switch bothers me can't find anything in the manual about it. It does have rear air. I uploaded a couple of images have no clue where they went. LOL

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Too Dumb to die

ceasefire49 on Mon June 16, 2014 6:08 PM User is offline

Man thought someone would know here. LOL

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Too Dumb to die

TRB on Mon June 16, 2014 7:17 PM User is offlineView users profile

You need to copy the link and past it for the images to show up.

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GM Tech on Mon June 16, 2014 7:38 PM User is offline

The switch in rear of compressor is HPCO- normally closed---

the switch on high side line near compressor manifold is the recirc door activator-- closes recirc door when head pressure is excessive to lower head pressure automatically

the switch out front on condenser line behind grille is the auxilliary cooling fan activator- again, when excessive head pressure- the front electric pusher cooling fan comes on...this is only found on 454 (7.4L) engine applications as is yours.

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

ceasefire49 on Mon June 16, 2014 10:27 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
You need to copy the link and past it for the images to show up.

What Link LOL Am I missing something here? LOL



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Too Dumb to die

ceasefire49 on Mon June 16, 2014 10:35 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: GM Tech
The switch in rear of compressor is HPCO- normally closed---



the switch on high side line near compressor manifold is the recirc door activator-- closes recirc door when head pressure is excessive to lower head pressure automatically



the switch out front on condenser line behind grille is the auxiliary cooling fan activator- again, when excessive head pressure- the front electric pusher cooling fan comes on...this is only found on 454 (7.4L) engine applications as is yours.

Okay thanks so it is a low pressure switch I get it . Okay thanks the wire connector is more then likely the one that links the front condenser fan Thanks a bunch.



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Too Dumb to die

GM Tech on Tue June 17, 2014 7:46 AM User is offline

The condenser is HIGH pressure-- so I would never call it a low pressure switch..just sayin'

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Jag987 on Tue June 17, 2014 11:22 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: ceasefire49
Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
You need to copy the link and past it for the images to show up.



What Link LOL Am I missing something here? LOL

You are missing your pictures/link. It does not show up in the op so we cannot see the pictures.

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I bought a can of 134a at w**-mart that had a stop leak, oil, and dye in it. It also had a hose and a gauge, so now I'm an AC pro!

ceasefire49 on Thu June 19, 2014 1:17 PM User is offline

Okay thanks. purchased a new switch at dealer and took the wrong one back for refund. The Wire seems it came off of either a 84 Gold wing or an 86 diesel van..LOL must have goy tossed in or left in one of my catchment containers as I mark them for each item I remove and place the nuts and bolts brackets what ever for that item in them. Blowing cold I am getting low pressure at around 30 and high around 205 with vent temps at 58 at 100 degrees outside. I more then likely did not get enough in as one of the 22oz bottles had a slight leak.


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Too Dumb to die

ceasefire49 on Sat June 21, 2014 11:15 AM User is offline

But another problem cropped up. SOoooo as I put all new stuff on this I was not aware that when getting an aftermarket condenser it came with an orifice tube installed. I flushed system and put all new everything on now then the front orifice tube(The one that is supposed to be there in back of the Y )was perfect nothing in it so I am assuming nothing traveled to the rear but..the one that was stuck in the condenser by the manufacturer was full of black crud like seal shavings or something. So I will be flushing the system out. Initially it was great all pressures were great and air was great. then after 3 days I decided to check pressures. I noticed when hooking up gauges that both sides were high indicating a blockage I mean real high. Started it up and even higher. I had been checking for the past two days and everything seemed okay. I looked over some posts here and on other sites and became aware of the deal with Orifice tube in condensers that are after market. Should have checked. Think I have to replace everything or do you guys think another good flush and blow out will do?

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Too Dumb to die

ceasefire49 on Sat June 21, 2014 12:34 PM User is offline

Its weird because it was cooling well even with the Pressures high as hell on both ends. So I am assuming the new condenser is trashed and I'll need a new one. 9Another 65 bucks) the compressor is under warranty and what about the new hoses? Can they be flushed? I'll put on a new accumulator and reflush the evap. Thinking about blocking off the rear air for now.

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Too Dumb to die

ceasefire49 on Sat June 21, 2014 12:41 PM User is offline

Its weird because it was cooling well even with the Pressures high as hell on both ends. So I am assuming the new condenser is trashed and I'll need a new one. another 65 bucks) the compressor is under warranty and what about the new hoses? Can they be flushed? I'll put on a new accumulator and re-flush the evap. Thinking about blocking off the rear air for now. Whats even weirder is when I took it in to have the system drained the Vac was good when he did it. Now then when he pulled the freon out did that bring some of the gunk out of the evap into the Orifice tube? Or does that not even happen?

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Too Dumb to die

mk378 on Sat June 21, 2014 6:06 PM User is offline

Have you removed the extra orifice tube and tried it with the proper setup?

If there's gunk in the system it will be everywhere. It will move around and eventually land in the orifice tube screen, if it doesn't destroy the compressor first.

Edited: Sat June 21, 2014 at 6:07 PM by mk378

ceasefire49 on Sun June 22, 2014 9:20 AM User is offline

Yea I removed the extra orifice tube and it was full of crap. The orifice tube in back of the y was clean. So I am assuming the Compressor is toast. I informed the company I got the compress from(gave then the story) and they are sending me a knew one since it was under warranty. I am sure I will have to buy a new condenser as this just had way to much stuff in the orifice tube and I doubt the stuff will come out. Can the manifold hoses be flushed?? If not I will buy new ones again. Since its hot here I purchased the rear block off kit from a company and will do the complete redo of the rear evap and put the rubber lines in when I get back to Phoenix in October. I just need to get the front working and it looks like back to square one. I'll remove everything flush(Evap) and put all new stuff on(Remembering to remove orifice tube on new condenser)Block the rear off and Evac and take it down to the guy that removed the Freon and have it charged. he took 3.5 pounds out so I think its only 2 lbs going back in with just the front air..I'll check on that though. I know that the accumulator is going to have to be replaced but do you think I will have to flush the line in back of Y pipe for the front air? Like I said the orifice tube there looked great.

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Too Dumb to die

ceasefire49 on Sun June 22, 2014 2:04 PM User is offline

Reason why I bought Rear Block off plugs is Because I do not have time o replace the rear Ac lines an Evap and THX right now. I will do that this winter When I buy the rubber hose Kit. For now I will do the Block off And flush that line good. Found out I canot flush hose with Mufflers so bought new Delco hoses and ordered new Condensor Have new Accumulator so will Flush Evap real good waiting for Parts. Since it is only going to have front air now will 8 oz be enough instead of the 11 Ounce. an ounce in Condenser(Put in Top or Bottom) a ounce in Accumulator and 6 in Compressor. Since I am Changing everything and not using the rear you think Pag 150 would be okay instead of 46?


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Too Dumb to die

mk378 on Sun June 22, 2014 2:29 PM User is offline

Why would you want to use the wrong oil? Follow all the specs for a front air only truck, since that's what you're going to have.

ceasefire49 on Sun June 22, 2014 6:43 PM User is offline

Well it may or not be the wrong Oil I am reading everywhere where GM upgraded to Pag 150. The only reason why I used the 46 was because I did not know how much was in the rear evap. Since I am blocking that off and changing everything out(Again) I thought I would ask. It appears that GM ungraded because of the trouble they were having with the Compressors. This link from is from this Forum so I am figuring since I am just doing the front(All new and Flush) and doing the entire rear later that 150 is okay.

http://www.autoacforum.com/speclisting.pdf


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Too Dumb to die

Edited: Sun June 22, 2014 at 6:50 PM by ceasefire49

mk378 on Mon June 23, 2014 8:31 AM User is offline

If it's an R4 compressor, use PAG 150. I thought GM said PAG 46 for everything else.

ceasefire49 on Mon June 23, 2014 10:51 AM User is offline

Yep you are correct just got off the phone with the compressor guy that sold it. he said 46 is correct and there is quite a bit of misinformation out there on this. So you are correct I'll be sticking with the 46.

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