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04 Mazda Tribute Blowing Warm Air

rcklr on Tue July 01, 2014 12:48 AM User is offline

Year: 2004
Make: mazda
Model: Tribute
Engine Size: 3.0L
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 90F
Pressure Low: 36psi
Pressure High: 210psi

A relative showed up with her 04 Mazda Tribute blowing hot air and the compressor cycling. It's been like this for some time according to her. Pressures were around 130psi high and the low side cycling between 20-40psi, classic low refrigerant. I added 12oz 134a (32oz total capacity) to bring the low side pressure up to above freezing at 36-38psi with no compressor cycling and that brought the high side up to 210psi. The high side line is cold where it runs from the orifice tube to the firewall and the low side line coming out of the firewall is quite warm. AC is set on max with the windows open, ambient is 90F and typical Florida high humidity. Air coming out of the vents is about 70F. Water is dripping out of the condensate hose.

It appears the evaporator isn't getting enough refrigerant. Should I add more refrigerant, or replace the orifice tube? Vehicle has 100k miles and has spent time in Orlando, FL (AC runs year round).

If I change the orifice tube do I need a special tool to extract it? Last time I changed an orifice tube was on an 85 Chevy Caprice. No extractor required. I haven't looked close at the black clamp that secures the orifice tube connection. Is that removed by hand?

On a second side note, if I feel around under the dash I can tell the heater core is staying hot. I can't tell if the blend door is closing all the way, and I looked under the hood for a heater control valve and didn't see one. I wanted to make sure the hot water was turning off when the temp control was set to full cold. I followed both heater hoses from the block to the firewall and didn't see a valve. Does this truck (Ford/Mazda) have a valve somewhere else?

Dougflas on Tue July 01, 2014 1:13 AM User is offline

maybe you should recover and evacuate the system and put the proper amount of R134a in it. This way, you'll eliminate the charge level as a problem. You can clamp off the heater hoses for a reheat problem check.

Edited: Tue July 01, 2014 at 1:19 AM by Dougflas

RRWA on Tue July 01, 2014 1:37 AM User is offline

The line between the orifice tube and the firewall/evaporator is LOW temperature/pressure liquid line...not high side line.

Make sure your engine fan is working properly

I think reheating could be a strong possibility.

rcklr on Tue July 01, 2014 7:35 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: RRWA
The line between the orifice tube and the firewall/evaporator is LOW temperature/pressure liquid line...not high side line.

Make sure your engine fan is working properly

I think reheating could be a strong possibility.

True, once the refrigerant passes through the orifice tube, it's low pressure not high.

Fans are working great.

I did try clamping off the hot water line without any change. I only clamped it for a minute or two.

rcklr on Tue July 01, 2014 7:37 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: Dougflas
maybe you should recover and evacuate the system and put the proper amount of R134a in it. This way, you'll eliminate the charge level as a problem. You can clamp off the heater hoses for a reheat problem check.

If I do that I'd also like to change the orifice tube. Any tricks to changing it?


Cussboy on Tue July 01, 2014 2:26 PM User is offline

If it was low on refrigerant, then it has a leak which needs to be fixed, not a band-aid attempt to fix by adding refrigerant.

And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant. And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant.

rcklr on Wed July 02, 2014 12:10 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: Cussboy
If it was low on refrigerant, then it has a leak which needs to be fixed, not a band-aid attempt to fix by adding refrigerant. (snip) And NEVER add refrigerant that contains a sealant.

I've recharged low systems that go for years before they need charging again. Not in this case however. The system had lost a surprising amount in one day. The only leak my detector found was the orifice tube joint. Since the tube is suspect, I'll change it and fitting orings.

And I agree, sealant is a great way to screw up the entire system trying to eliminate one trouble spot. If your lucky it will fix the leak long enough to sell the car.


rcklr on Tue July 08, 2014 1:00 AM User is offline

I replaced the orifice tube and orings and recharged the system. Orifice tube was plugged with aluminum fines and teflon shreds. The system is cooling well for now. The compressor however is shedding wear particles at an unknown rate. When I look online at AC repair kits all I find for this vehicle are compressor, orifice tube, and receiver kits for ~$200. None of the kits I've found include a condenser. Is this condenser flushable?

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