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R134a conversion plan after loss of R-12 & maybe compressor

mrau92me on Mon June 24, 2013 6:39 PM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 1994
Make: Mazda
Model: B3000
Engine Size: 3.0L V6
Refrigerant Type: R-12 to R-134a
Country of Origin: United States

The mileage on my truck is ~190k, and one very hot day last year while it was idling I heard a loud noise while standing about 15 yd away. I think the pressure relief valve on the compressor relieved the pressure, and then it wasn't cooling after that. However, the compressor still turns but there's some oil on top of it back where the hose manifold is. The truck didn't overheat, but I'm going to hopefully check to see if my fan clutch has gone out tonight. Also, in the approx 2 years previous, I had added a couple of cans of Freeze12 (not at the same time) because of what seemed to be a slow leak (yeah, I wish I hadn't used Freeze12).

Anyway, I have now purchased a new compressor, new hoses, a self-adjusting orifice tube, and a new accumulator. I could not find a condenser made for converting my system to R134a with full cooling capability. My questions are:

Do I have to flush the condenser if there's a chance that the old compressor didn't go bad based on the fact that the compressor still turns?
Do I have to flush the evaporator?
In any case, what oil should I use?

Thanks.

Edited: Mon June 24, 2013 at 6:52 PM by mrau92me

fix_it on Tue June 25, 2013 10:25 AM User is offline

Is this the truck that is a renamed Ranger? Maybe see if a condenser for a 1996 or so Ranger would fit. That is assuming it would be a 134a compatible design. Probably a 6mm or serpentine type. Both are better than a tube and fin design. Regarding flushing, I would flush everything except the dryer and any mufflers. I would replace the compressor, orifice, and dryer. I'd also replace the fan clutch for good measure. I'd upgrade the condenser if possible. The evaporator can be a pain to remove. You might get away with flushing it on the truck, but make sure you get the solvent out of it. Make sure to use ester or pag oil and pull a good vacuum. You should have good results.

mrau92me on Tue June 25, 2013 12:35 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: fix_it
Is this the truck that is a renamed Ranger? Maybe see if a condenser for a 1996 or so Ranger would fit. That is assuming it would be a 134a compatible design. Probably a 6mm or serpentine type. Both are better than a tube and fin design. Regarding flushing, I would flush everything except the dryer and any mufflers. I would replace the compressor, orifice, and dryer. I'd also replace the fan clutch for good measure. I'd upgrade the condenser if possible. The evaporator can be a pain to remove. You might get away with flushing it on the truck, but make sure you get the solvent out of it. Make sure to use ester or pag oil and pull a good vacuum. You should have good results.

Thanks, and yes, it's a "Ranger". You and I think alike regarding using a '95 or '96 condenser. I've looked at pics of them on-line at rockauto.com, but it doesn't look like the '95 condenser will fit...the inlet and outlet might be in the vicinity but they point in different directions, and I can't tell anything about the mounting locations. I'm considering calling a Ford dealership to make sure.

I've already purchased everything except a condenser and an evaporator. I purchased all hoses...one set has a muffler and the remaining one was only $11. I can get a direct replacement condenser from ACkits for $107 ($69 on Amazon). I'm considering buying one of these condensers and not even touching the evaporator if the old orifice tube screen looks good, because a Mastercool flush gun kit and a good solvent will cost me $78 (Note: I have a good air compressor at home). Does this sound like a decent plan?

fix_it on Tue June 25, 2013 2:36 PM User is offline

Sounds good to me. You will have gotten most of the oil out just by replacing everything. I'd probably spray a whole can of brake cleaner through the evaporator followed by compressed air to attempt to rinse out as much oil as possible. The brake cleaner will dry rapidly and won't leave a residue. It may not be proper, but I've had good luck with it.

mrau92me on Tue June 25, 2013 7:02 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: fix_it
Sounds good to me. You will have gotten most of the oil out just by replacing everything. I'd probably spray a whole can of brake cleaner through the evaporator followed by compressed air to attempt to rinse out as much oil as possible. The brake cleaner will dry rapidly and won't leave a residue. It may not be proper, but I've had good luck with it.

Great, thanks for the advice...

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