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evaporator / orifice tube

Bob Fletcher on Sat June 05, 2010 11:19 PM User is offline

Year: 1991
Make: Chev
Model: S10 Blazer
Engine Size: 4.3
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: N/A
Pressure Low: N/A
Pressure High: N/A
Country of Origin: United States

While replacing the compressor, accumulator and orifice tube, due to a clutch melt down, I found the old orifice had slipped all the way down to the 90 degree bend below the accumulator. Removed, with great difficulty, as much as I can, of the old orifice. It appears that the tube and part of the filter is firmly stuck in the bend of the pipe. Seems like a simple problem but I have tried all I can think of. Appreciate any ideas. The evap. is only 3 or 4 years old and in good condition. Be a shame to trash it due to a $2 part.

Thanks

TRB on Sun June 06, 2010 12:39 AM User is offlineView users profile

Have you tried compressed air from the suction inlet. Careful not to have a hand or anythings else in front of the liquid port when doing this!

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Bob Fletcher on Sun June 06, 2010 7:04 AM User is offline

Thanks, Yes I tried many times with air up to 120 lbs. Soaked it over night with flush. Finally got oil and flush blowing through . Tube is still mounted in the lower portion of the plastic body and probably still has the O ring. Too far down the pipe to reach with any tool I have. The small amount that did come out, with a spring hook, was very black and in tiny pieces. Now considering drilling it out if I can find a bit long enough. May have to go for a new evap.

HECAT on Sun June 06, 2010 7:26 AM User is offline

Sometimes a stubborn OT can be removed with a long drywall screw. This one may be in too deep, but I have seen long drywall type screws available up to 6 inches.

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Bob Fletcher on Sun June 06, 2010 1:37 PM User is offline

Sounds like a good idea but this thing was so far around the bend I gave up and got a new evap.. Of course Murphy was watching and threw me another curve. The condenser was already disconnected so I flushed it through the two hoses. DURA II from NAPA. First pint or so blew through as expected. Very dirty. Ran another pint through but not as expected. Nothing but air coming out. Wish I had read the post on today's forum before I started . Not that it would have changed anything. If these condensers tend to pool at the bottom, I have to ask, how do you get it back out. Only way I can guess is take the condenser out and go again with the ports down.. Please tell me I am wrong. Nasty job.

Thanks for the advice. Us dummies need all the help we can get.

HECAT on Mon June 07, 2010 6:55 AM User is offline

The best approach is to backflush a condenser (in at lower port) to liquid flood and back out debris that cannot be pushed through. Then you will need to purge (DRY air or nitrogen) in the normal flow direction (in at upper port) to dry out the solvent.

Unfortunately effective condenser flushing as described above cannot be done very easily or possibly at all with a "pouring in pints" method while the component is installed. It may produce better results with the component removed.

The flush you mentioned has evaporative qualities and should be able to be removed. I suggest a purge for 20 minutes minimum.

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FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

Bob Fletcher on Mon June 07, 2010 10:12 PM User is offline

Thanks HECAT. This entire episode started out with, what I thought, a bad clutch. Result of a short ride on the interstate with my grandson driving and me not paying attention. You just had to be there. Had I known the extent of damage, some one like you would be dealing with it. That is to say, " if we had some one like you in Florida." Unfortunately, my experience with A/C shops in this area have been horror stories.

I did remove the condenser, flushed it again but soon realized I was beating a dead horse. Black Death is an under statement. Hard to believe what came out. Oddly, the system was still producing cold air. Sounded like an Irish Banshee but was cold.

Tomorrow a new condenser will be in place but now have the problem of finding a professional willing to pick up the pieces and someone I can trust.
. Complete new system. Not charged. Not connected. I need someone to evacuate, charge and test. Going to be interesting. If my vacuum pump could get below 19 Hg, I might go for it myself.

Thanks for your very interesting and helpful advice.

Bob

HECAT on Tue June 08, 2010 6:36 AM User is offline

You can look for a MACS member shop, or tell us where you are in FL and you may get some shop recommendations.

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FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

Bob Fletcher on Tue June 15, 2010 9:35 AM User is offline

Thanks again HECAT. I did not check my mail until after the truck was in a shop. For future use, did check the yellow pages for MACS members but found none. A/C is now working but not sure if as well as could be. Shop tech. was happy to get vent temp. down to 55 degrees. He found nothing wrong with my installation. No leaks etc. Was finished in 45 minutes. Seems quite fast. ?. The truck was outside under direct sun. Temp. was 97. Humidity 86%. I checked very early this AM, in my garage, temp. inside 85 degrees, humidity 85%. Digital probe in center vent indicated 42 in Max mode, with blower at minimum speed. With blower at max speed, did not indicate less than 61. As expected in other blower speeds. Have not tested while driving.

I am in Plant City FL, between Tampa and Lakeland. Will probably try to get another opinion. All this trouble with A/C shops may be my own fault. I am quite close with the American Peso. Sarcasm intended. This time cost was not an issue but I still wonder.

I do appreciate your help and advice.

HECAT on Tue June 15, 2010 10:14 AM User is offline

MACS member shops in FL

Looks like Marks Air in Tampa might be a good option if needed. Ask for Gordon.

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FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

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