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1996 Taurus A/C pressure switch

bubbad on Sun June 17, 2007 10:44 PM User is offline

Year: 1996
Make: Ford
Model: Taurus
Engine Size: 3.0
Refrigerant Type: r-134
Country of Origin: United States

I have an intermittent problem with this A/C. When the compressor is running, the pressures are fine, and the vent temps are good. After it runs a while, the compressor shuts down. I checked the low pressure switch by the accumulator, and it was closed. I tried jumping the connector anyway, and still no clutch engagement. Then I discovered another switch in the suction line right at the compressor. It has 4 wires - tan/green stripe: 12 volts, red/yellow stripe:12 volts, a pink/blue stripe, and a black. With ignition off, I ohmed out the switch - continuity from the pin of the red/yellow stripe ( the 12v wire), to pink/blue stripe which is directly across from it, was closed. The other pin for the 12v wire the tan/green stripe had no continuity to the pin across from it which is the black wire.

It seems this switch may be where it's getting hung up. I didn't try jumping out anything there because I'm not sure where those wires go. The radiator fan does run even when the compressor is off.

Anyone familiar with this switch, and does it seem like it could be the problem?

Thanks

Chick on Sun June 17, 2007 11:03 PM User is offlineView users profile

When it stops working try tapping the clutch inwards, if it grabs, the clutch gap needs adjustment..Leave the four wire switch alone..Thats the high pressure switch..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Zildjian on Sun June 17, 2007 11:04 PM User is offline

You are having the exact same issue as I (1997 Taurus) and it appears you jumpered the LP cycling switch and got the exact same result. I am awaiting an answer on also testing this HP cutout switch. Check my thread on A/C High Pressure Switch and A/C High Pressure Switch - Test. Don't jumper this switch or you'll fry the computer (I've read that here).

Some threads here on a search I have done suggest cleaning the prongs on the switch and/or wiggling to see if the clutch engages. If it does engage...replace it or clean it up. I believe that was the suggestion if memory serves me and I will do this tomorrow. Another possibility is compressor air gap adjustment with getting to the clutch a nightmare for me with a Duratec 3.0.

Hope I've helped a little and I by no means am even close to being even a ammature on this topic!

Zilly

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1997 Sable LS, Duratec engine with EATC.

bubbad on Sun June 17, 2007 11:05 PM User is offline

Thanks Chick. I will give that a try.

JJM on Mon June 18, 2007 12:14 AM User is offline

It could very well be the stinkin' CCRM - an expensive common failure part on many Fords. They can be repaired if you're handy - often bad solder joints or an internal relay. It can also be by bypassed altogether.

On the HPCO, you can safely jumper the RED/YELLOW to PINK/LIGHT BLUE - this will complete the circuit from the CPS to the CCRM. You can also safely jumper the BLACK to BLACK/YELLOW wire - or ground the the BLACK/YELLOW direct, since the other BLACK is simply a ground. DO NOT CROSS THESE WIRES! If there's still no go, then the CCRM of clutch coil itself (or gap) is bad.

Did you try applying +12V directly to the compressor (not the harness side) and see if the clutch engages?

Joe

Chick on Mon June 18, 2007 6:38 AM User is offlineView users profile

I see a lot of failures with the CCRM on the escort, or contour, but haven't really had many on the Tarus/sable.. But it may be old enough for that to start happening..As JJ said, they can be repaired..If the tapping the clutch doesn't work you can e-mail me for the repair procedure..May not get back to you until tonight though..I can't access Mitchel from home for the wireing diagrams, but there is a way to bypass/jump the CCRM to confirm that is the problem..If I can remember I'll check the wireing diagrams at work and let you know the colors to jump..They are expensive from Ford, but the junkyard I work out of sells them for around $30 to $40 bucks..They control fuel pump, fans etc..But we sell them usually due to fan operation unless it's the escort, then it's always the AC operation...
Below is a pic of what the CCRM (constant control relay modual) looks like..It's not in this location on your car, but may be under the radiator cover..Can't remember..This one is on a Mustang, but they all look the same..



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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

bubbad on Mon June 18, 2007 8:49 PM User is offline

Ok, folks, thanks for the help so far. The car belongs to my mother, so I had her stop over tonight, and this is what I found: After checking everything over, it seems that the A/C clutch was cutting out because the engine was running too hot - it was low on water. I topped off the coolant, and got the temp gauge cycling back in the center of the "Normal" area. The fan does run with the A/C like it's supposed to, and I drove it around for a half hour, and it cooled perfectly the whole time.

Make sense? Does the CCRM cut out the compressor when the engine gets too hot?

Again, thanks for the help.

Chick on Mon June 18, 2007 9:15 PM User is offlineView users profile

The ECm does, to take the heat load off the engine when it runs hot..All apears normal, now to fix the coolant leak...Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

bubbad on Sun July 01, 2007 7:51 PM User is offline

Well, all was working ok, and now the A/C has stopped again. This time when it is switched on, nothing happens, not even the fan, and the engine is well within the normal temperature range. Could it be the CCRM this time? Is there a way to check for voltages to determine if that's the culprit?

Thanks.

rm32644 on Tue November 18, 2008 1:56 PM User is offlineView users profile

Just curious, was this problem ever resolved?

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