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Remanuf. VIR or rebuild?

yosuthnmasa on Fri August 17, 2007 3:46 AM User is offline

Year: 1973
Make: Buick
Country of Origin: United States

Guys, I've got to go in and replace my VIR/Drier assembly because its leaking...appears to be around the seal between the Drier and VIR. I've gotten some suggestions to just by a remanufactured one. Cost is around $140. However, I've also come across a rebuild kit for about $20. Is there anything special about rebuilding a VIR/Drier Assembly? Does it require any special tools? Is it easy to screw up the rebuild? Just trying to decide if my money is better spent on a rebuild kit rather than the whole assembly. Car has only 21,000 original miles.

Dougflas on Fri August 17, 2007 10:32 AM User is offline

Rebuild kits usually contain o-rings and desiccant bag. Should get you thru it. Make sure desiccant is good for R134a refrigerant if that is what you're using. Some VIR's used other than normal hex head bolts so make sure you have the correct socket. Be prepared for stripped out threaded holes. You won't need the special tools to remove the TXV and POA capsules if you're just resealing.

ice-n-tropics on Fri August 17, 2007 11:37 AM User is offline

It was a snap to rebuild the VIR on my 74 Camero. Cleaned the outside real good before disassembly. Just be sure that the kit has fresh desiccant and is not outdated with long shelf life.
Cordially,
Old IV guy

-------------------------
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fonebone on Fri August 17, 2007 9:08 PM User is offline

I'll add to what ice said--A leak between the drier and body might indicate a slight corrosion problem at the o-ring surface,and/or old,hardened o-rings, if everthing else is tight. No special tools required. Buy the kit, evac the system, carefully remove the screws,bolts holding the "can" that holds the drier. The can that hangs down can be a bear to remove, especially after so many years. DO NOT damage it trying to remove it, Have patience! Work carefully around the rim, prying carefully a little at a time to break the seal. You might even try a strap wrench around the body of the can to help, but patience is the word. There are 2 o-rings. One surrounds the cutout, on the part that hangs down, the other seals the base right up against the end of the "can" where it meets the VIR body. You'll note the slight difference in shape. Clean and inspect fully the inside surface where the o-ring sits against the inside of the can (dessicant holder). Make sure you sand with a light fine paper any roughness where the o-ring mates, polish up with scotchbrite. You'll have a new pick-up tube filter in the kit, but if your old one is clean, I'd say leave it alone. (It just pulls off, pushes on) Purchase (from these nice folks who run the this site) some NYLOG for the o-rings. This is MANDATORY if you do not want leaks. Install new drier bag (ya gotta kind of stuff it down and make room for the pick-up tube, then add about 1 once of mineral oil, to replace what is saturated in the old bag(for r-12, that is; hope you are still using it!) re-install attaching hardware, evac check, assure no leakdown, add refrig. as required, check system performance, and for any leaks.

Edited: Fri August 17, 2007 at 9:21 PM by fonebone

yosuthnmasa on Sat August 18, 2007 12:21 AM User is offline

Guys thanks so much for the advice. Right now I'm really not sure about all of your directions on rebuilding the VIR since I don't have it off and looking at it. This will be my first work done on an A/C system. I'm working on a 73 Buick with A6 compressor. Will be keeping it R12.

Where might I find an exploded diagram of what the assembly is constructed of? This would probably help me explain/understand things a lot better. Would the Mastercool manual sold on this site show a breakdown by chance? Sounds like I'll buy the VIR rebuild kit since its only about $20 on oldairproducts.com. Here's a link:

http://www.oldairproducts.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=3744&osCsid=9ff7de54176a7bb2e4f0963facde9b44

Does this look like all I'll need? How will I know if my desiccant has been sitting too long in the rebuild kit? Do you recommend any another kit or company to buy from?

fonebone on Sat August 18, 2007 1:20 AM User is offline

I've got my Mastercool manual loaned out-cannot remember if it has a drawing. You really will not need it. You are only pulling off the round can shaped cylinder as I described, not doing a complete VIR rebuild. If you have a NAPA dealer nearby, save yourself time and shipping and buy it there. Same price. It's listed under their A/C line as "VIR kit". My guess is only one manufacturer makes it for everyone. Know any gearheads with old GM manuals? '73 thru '78 or so will have a nice drawing of the unit. All models used the same VIR, so it will be in any Buick,Cad, Olds, Chevy. Pontiac manual in those years.

yosuthnmasa on Sat August 18, 2007 11:39 PM User is offline

Great, thanks a bunch for the heads up on the local VIR rebuild kit. I'll have to check to see if they carry it at NAPA. So, while I'm in there you wouldn't recommend finishing the rest of the rebuild?

oznznut on Sun August 19, 2007 12:05 PM User is offline

I bought several vir rebuild kits from NAPA. Just have dessicant bag and large o-rings. The dessicant bags were sealed in a foil pouch to keep them dry. The problem, if someone was to use r134a, with the NAPA kits is that the manufacture date on the pouch was Jan 1984. I'm looking at it right now. Don't know if that dessicant would be compatible with 134a. But since you are staying with 12, go for it.

As for a "total rebuild" of the vir, all there is inside the unit is the poa module and the txv. Both are available. But if it worked before, and didn't get full of gunk/rust, they should be ok now. A complete o-ring kit is still available from GM. Delco number 15-565, GM number 6599447. Cost me about $15.00. POA is Delco number 15-562, GM number 6599444. I have the numbers for the EEVIR txv, but in 1973 they used the early VIR, and the txvs were not interchangable.

But if the unit is dry and sealed from dirt/crud, I don't think you need worry about the top half.

Dave

fonebone on Mon August 20, 2007 12:15 AM User is offline

I agree with oznznut- If it ain't broke, don't fix it! VIR's never required a "rebuild", as if they were ever worn out after a time. A well designed unit made to last for years (I'm using one from a boneyard '74 Monte Carlo in my daily driver '79 Caprice; I converted it from a cycling clutch CCOT system, and only changed the dessicant bag once 2 years ago!) if the system was not opened to dirt and rust, it will outlast the driver!

Edited: Mon August 20, 2007 at 12:16 AM by fonebone

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