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Electronic leak detector ?

kourso on Sun August 19, 2007 2:31 AM User is offline

Country of Origin: United States

I just bought a Robinair 16600 electronic refrigerant leak detector and I am trying to understand what is the best way to use it on the car.
I have tried to use it to check the evaporator core by holding it by the interior air vents with the blower on different speeds and at times I am picking up a good signal of a leak. I am not sure if it is a false positive due to the positive air pressure from the vents.
I have also tried to check thru the bottom heater vents without the a/c blower on. It picked up something every now and then but I think it was when the nozzle tip pushed against something possibly stopping the sample flow.
Does anyone have experience with this brand/model or any others similar to this.I HAVE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USING.
There is no mention of a positive air flow causing any problem with the detector.
Please send me some advice for using this machine for testing the whole a/c system on a vehicle.
Anybody has any experience with this Robinair model ?
I may be doing some things wrong.
Also I found a pretty good leak at the high pressure schrader valve, I pushed it down a couple of times and it seems to have helped seal it off almost completely. What can be done to tighten and/or replace the schrader valve ???
Thanks guys,
Kenny



DNT on Sun August 19, 2007 2:19 PM User is offlineView users profile

Not sure about the robinaire unit but many other electronic refrigerant leak detectors are much more sensitive to the R-12 or R-22 chlorine based type refrigerants rather than the R134A.
Some people have been known to utilize a few ounces of R-22 along with dry nitrogen to test a system that has a real small (hard to find) leak, the electronic detectors typically respond much better to the R-22. It does take a bit of specialized equipment (the stuff is basically worthless for any other purpose) but most serious DIYers will make the investment cuz it is so much fun. Your local welding supply can hook you up on a rental bottle of Nitrogen ask for a size #80 (that is the smaller bottle), and you can purchase a good guality flow regulator for probably 150 bones. You will also need some adaptors to go from standard 1/4" to the acme threads on your guages and maybe a little bit of R-22 which will require the EPA cert to purchase, but you can get that cert with just a few weeks of night school at your local technical college, then you can fix on your house unit also. I will have to predict that we have a new MVAC and HVAC Technician in the works here.

-------------------------
Anyone who gives up freedom for the sake of safety, deserves neither freedom nor safety!

Edited: Sun August 19, 2007 at 2:20 PM by DNT

Dougflas on Sun August 19, 2007 5:15 PM User is offline

I disagree with using R22 as a trace refrigerant with n2. Rubber hoses will absorb R22 and will continue to outgas. Use 134a with N2 if you want to use a trace gas. It will pick up a leak. Use about 80lbs pressure of n2. My personal opinion of a good detector is the Tek-mate and the H10 versions.

kourso on Mon August 20, 2007 1:42 AM User is offline

Thanks Guys,
I am trying to find these leaks with the UV dye and/or electronic leak tester methods. I would not want to completely depressure and switch to a temp test gas.
I thought one of these methods would be successful in finding the leak.
I did find the high side schrader valve leak and after opening/closing the stem a couple of times seems to have sealed much better.
What is a good fix for something like this?
How about when the vehicle is closed overnight, CAN THE ELECTRONIC LEAK DETECTOR FIND THE LEAK IN THE INTERIOR OF THE CAR WITHOUT IT BEING A FALSE POSITIVE DUE TO CARPET/PLASTIC OUTGASSING, EVEN IN GOOD AMBIENT AIR TEMP LIKE 80 degrees ????
Oh, I have given it some thought to going to HVAC school to get certified, where can I find some study material/test questions/practice exams????
I need some help,
Kenny

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