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Denso Clutch Bearing Replacement

JerseyCruiser on Mon September 17, 2007 8:57 PM User is offline

Year: 1993
Make: Toyota
Model: Land Cruiser
Engine Size: 4.5 L
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Country of Origin: Japan

My AC clutch makes a howling sound when its not engaged but it disappears as long as its under load. I can only assume that the bearing in the clutch is bad. Do I need to replace the entire clutch or is the bearing available by itself from my local NAPA other then a dealership? Do I need any special tools to remove it other then the one that keeps the pressure plate stationary? It is the OEM compressor on the vehicle


Thanks
George

NickD on Tue September 18, 2007 8:34 AM User is offline

Talking about the pulley idler bearing I assume, typically a double roll, double sealed bearing, and yes, bearings like that can be found by specifying the type, mainly that it is a double roll and double sealed bearing and knowing the metric size of the bearing, inner and outer diameter, and with width. Bit try e-mailing Tim to see if he has one, nice to have the parts before starting this project.

Some doubt remains as to the ease of changing this bearing, Denso's always had this bearing held in by a retaining ring, but it seems like Denso started switching to eliminating this convenience item and peening the bearing in. This you won't know until you look, if it has the retaining ring, no sweat, if it doesn't, the peens will have to be ground out just enough to press out the old bearing. Bearing epoxies exists, while these don't seem secure, I broke a puller once trying to get one off, others just press in the new one and let it go, while others try and using a punch and hammer to repeen it. I being on the cautious side, drilled and countersunk a couple of 10-32 flat head screws where the lip of the flat head would catch the outer race.

Removing the hub and pulley with a Denso is suppose to be a hand job, but after 14 years, some rust may take it's toll, hub can be worked out with a couple of 180* apart flat bladed screw drivers, good to clean any rust off the compressor hub after removing the pulley retainer ring. PB blaster helps, but stuff a rag around the compressor seal first, don't want any Blaster on that.

Regardless of whether it's a new bearing or not, like to repack it with my own grease, they last a lot longer that way.

Chick on Tue September 18, 2007 2:53 PM User is offlineView users profile

AC kits.com has them..Send an e-mail to Tim or Jack and ask them, I believe their reference num,ber will be BG-203 or BG-403 for the 10pa17C..Hope this helps...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

JerseyCruiser on Tue September 18, 2007 9:08 PM User is offline

I deserve the "Dumb Ass" award of the year! I got the front plate of the clutch off and as I was tapping off the rotor I snapped off the grove on the end off the compressor shaft that holds it in place. The beauty of it all is that I had the compressor on the bench last weekend when I flushed it and it would have been the best time to replace the bearing I KNEW was shot instead of killing myself trying to get it off while it was mounted in the truck! Can't belive I destroyed a perfectly good working compressor now I might as well get a new clutch as well and it kills me to have to pay to have it recharged! Where is a good place to buy a remanufactured Denso and clutch? Do I need to replace the new dryer I just put on before charging the system? I was looking at this one:

http://www.densoproducts.com/resultsApp.asp?AAIA=1276668&productCategoryID=5

Chick on Tue September 18, 2007 9:14 PM User is offlineView users profile

Sorry you ruined your compressor, but you are in the right place to get a new one... Check out 93 Land crusier compressor with clutch right here on our sponsors site. It's a 10PA17C and their remans are top quality at reasonable prices..Help the people who help you with this board..Good luck with your repair..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

JerseyCruiser on Tue September 18, 2007 9:35 PM User is offline

Looks like a good price you have sold me. I used Ester oil with UV dye in my system when I did my R134a retrofit. What will the new compressor come with? Will I need to replace the dryer?

Thanks
George

Chick on Tue September 18, 2007 9:48 PM User is offlineView users profile

Not sure what it will come with, but I always drain the oil and replace it with fresh oil. As far as the drier, normally you won't have to change it due to a clutch failure, but I would check the oil in the old compressor. If it's clean and fresh looking, you may want to re-use it, if it's dark and burned looking, then a system fush and new drier is needed..It's your call, but if the system will be open for any amount of time, it's cheap insurance to just change it..Hope this helps.

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

JerseyCruiser on Tue September 18, 2007 9:54 PM User is offline

The old mineral oil was unburned and totally clean when I flushed all of the components and compressor and thats when I replaced the dryer, expansion valve, and o-rings. It was so perfect it was blowing 40.3 F at idle.

Chick on Tue September 18, 2007 10:00 PM User is offlineView users profile

Remember if you're using R134a, use either double end capped "PAG 46" or BVA auto 100 ester. Don't use mineral oil with R134a.. Here's a link to the "oils" I would recommend, since it's what I use myself...
Pag oils and BVA auto 100 ester

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

NickD on Fri September 21, 2007 9:13 AM User is offline

On the positive side, if that flange broke off that easy, probably was already cracked, very thin where that retainer ring locks on. Just think of it as you caught it at home rather than on the road somewhere in some God forsaken place.

JerseyCruiser on Fri September 21, 2007 10:14 AM User is offline

NickD,

You were 100% right in suggesting that the nose be cleaned off after removing the retaining clip. I don't belive it was cracked but it probably had a high spot on it from rust and galvanic action between the aluminum and steel or maybe even being slightly seized due to the excess heat from the bad bearing. however if it was one my bench I could have avoided this with PB Blaster, sand paper and patience as it was not easy doing this in the engine bay. Well all I can say I did so much work to retrofit it it would be my luck that the shaft seal would start leaking so I'm glad it will be replaced. I just hate the fact of the compressor price, new dryer, and fee for recharge! Lesson learned!

George

Edited: Fri September 21, 2007 at 10:17 AM by JerseyCruiser

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