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Cloudy Sight Glass? Stop using a/c now?

vdubspeed on Sat May 03, 2008 10:35 AM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 1979
Make: VW
Model: Rabbit
Engine Size: 1.8
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 80
Pressure Low: 30
Pressure High: 225

So after busting a high side line I ordered a new dryer and oil. I installed a parallel flow condenser, vac'd, recharge and BAM...great A/C!!!

I was stoked BUT....

When I got my dryer in yesterday the cap had been installed from the factory crossthreaded and there was no vacuum in it. After charging the system I can't see anything in the glass. It's very cloudy.

I've read that this means the stuff in the dryer has broken down.

I don't want to f up my good working a/c and brand new compressor so what do I do now.

Thanks,

Jason

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vdubspeed on Sat May 03, 2008 10:57 AM User is offlineView users profile

oh yeah...the expansion valve will hum too. If you touch it you can feel a high frequency and it pulsing.

Anyone know what's up with that?

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vdubspeed on Sat May 03, 2008 12:43 PM User is offlineView users profile

I officially quit.

a/c hates me.

I bought:
new compressor
new dryer
new expansion valve
new lines
new parallel flow condenser
bva-100 oil
suva 134a
mastercool vac, gauges, etc.
evap was cleaned out

after all that...I'm getting 60 degree vent temps in 80 degree weather.

Last night when it was 75 out I had 37-40 vent temps witht the compressor cycling perfectly. sight glass cloudy.

Today...it's 80 degrees, pressures are about 25/200. Humming in the evap went away, low side line sweating great, sight glass went clear with a few bubbles and the vent temps are 60-65.

One more thing. Right after the sight glass went clear, my high side pressures were getting pretty high. If I revved it up a bit they would push to above 300. Is it possible that the dessicant in dryer clogged up my brand new condenser?

I honestly don't know what else I can do....

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Edited: Sat May 03, 2008 at 1:21 PM by vdubspeed

TRB on Sat May 03, 2008 6:00 PM User is offlineView users profile

300 PSI is not out of the normal range. Highly doubt anything was or is wrong with your drier. With R134a you may never clear the site glass!!!

Idle pressures and temps. 1500 RPM pressures and temps. How much refrigerant is currently in the system?

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vdubspeed on Sun May 04, 2008 2:43 PM User is offlineView users profile

81 ambient

turned on the car. idled for 1 minute. turned on a/c max with doors open.
30 low
225 high
low side line cold and sweaty.

raised idle(assuming 1500...have no tach)
21 low
260 high

vent temps were around 70.

Went for a short drive and the temp went down about 5-10 degrees.

As for amount of refridgement...I'm not really sure. I think it was a little overcharged because I had no bubbles but now I have a few here and there.




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TRB on Sun May 04, 2008 2:55 PM User is offlineView users profile

For starters make sure you are not getting hot water in the heater core. Temporary crimp the lines if needed. You pressures are not out of line if you have close to 34 ounces of refrigerant in the system. How much oil is currently in the system?

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

vdubspeed on Sun May 04, 2008 5:08 PM User is offlineView users profile

The system was completely drained of oil and filled with 4.5 oz's of BVA-100. 2 in the comp. 2.5 in the dryer. The right/left vents are not affected by the heatercore but the center one always is. While the other vents may be 60...the center will always be about 70.

Now my question is.

If the compressor was cycling perfectly one day with 37-40 vent temps(75 ambient)...what would make it so weak when the temp rose and the sun came out.

And also...would the a/c system really be affected if the refridgerant was at 30 oz's or say 40oz's.?

If it is then I will take it to the pro's and have them evacuate and refill to EXACTLY 36oz's...just as long as I get my 37 vent temps/compressor cycling back.

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bohica2xo on Sun May 04, 2008 5:23 PM User is offline

Grab your roll of duct tape - you know, the stuff that is holding the rest of the car together?

Tape the manifold set to the windshield where you can read it while driving, and route the hoses safely away from hot & rotating parts.

Go for a drive with plenty of airflow - 50+mph. Have a passenger record your pressures. Both Idle (costing for a moment) & 2500-4500 rpm.

You were concerned that the thin (16mm?) condensor was inadequate, but they really transfer the heat. It takea a LOT of airflow to do the job, and the OEM electric fan may be marginal when stopped. Be sure that it runs full speed anytime the compressor clutch is engaged.

It is a machine. It wins only if you let it...

B.

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"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

vdubspeed on Sun May 04, 2008 5:43 PM User is offlineView users profile

B - thanks for chimming in.

I did exactly what you said and took the car for a spin earlier today. The vent temps did fall to 58/60. The compressor clutch was engaged the whole time and so was the fan(the whole time). No evap humming though.

My "only" guess is that the system is not charged properly. I truely believe that the oil is correct, the condenser is strong and all the other parts are good.

I just wish it had stayed like it did the first night I installed freon(friday night). It was so cold my wife wouldn't even get in the car!

So you might be thinking it was leak but I used nylog at every thread and new o-rings.



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