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heater core effecting vent temps

chillin on Fri June 06, 2008 11:31 PM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 1998
Make: honda
Model: civic ex
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 89
Pressure Low: 36
Pressure High: 230
Country of Origin: United States

changed expansion valve pulled vacuum charged 23oz 134a by weight only had 60 deg vent temp compressor cycled some manual temp selector did not want to close the heater core valve all the way.Will this cause compressor to cycle? expansion valve would moan some.at 1500 rpm 30/260 this is the second expansion valve first one would not open caused vacuum on low side. Put everything back in its place and insulated tempreture bulb again.would this be a step in the right direction to mabe put a valve in to totally block coolant flow to heater core. later in evening vent temps were much cooler stepped on my thermometer what a day after pulling evap core twice. thanks for any help always a first class web sight.

TRB on Sat June 07, 2008 1:37 AM User is offlineView users profile

Heater is after the ac so it really should have zero effects on cycling.

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Chick on Sat June 07, 2008 5:54 AM User is offlineView users profile

Did you change the drier?

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Email: Chick

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NickD on Sat June 07, 2008 9:15 AM User is offline

Just find it easier to hand check the evaporator and heater hoses. evaporator should be ice cold, heater should be luke warm at the most. Your low side appears high to me for a TXV system, even at 89*F and a TXV shouldn't moan. Could be upstream with the receiver like Chick suggested, but wondered why you changed this valve twice, where are you getting it from?

chillin on Sat June 07, 2008 9:40 AM User is offlineView users profile

yes I did change the dryer with the second expansion valve.I also purchased the exp. valve locally guess I got what I paid for thanks for the help.

iceman2555 on Sat June 07, 2008 1:56 PM User is offlineView users profile

When the TXV was installed....was the sensor bulb mechanically attached to the evap outlet....not just insulated...but was clamping device used to attach the bulb to the evap outlet? If not this could be the reason for the high low side reading.
Also the placement of the sensor probe (temp sensor) in the evap core/case is most important for determination of cycling points.

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chillin on Sat June 07, 2008 6:28 PM User is offlineView users profile

yes I tried to put everything back in its original place thanks for all the replies will post back when I skin this cat oh penguin!

chillin on Sun June 08, 2008 9:32 AM User is offlineView users profile

after looking futher at the hot and cold selector switch that controls the damper to the heater seems like I got it to seal better and vent temps in low 40s I dont think these temps are too out of line for this car. thanks for all the replies

mk378 on Sun June 08, 2008 12:54 PM User is offline

It's very important for that water valve to close fully with the control on cold. It's a reheat system where the A/C always tries to cool the incoming air to about 40. Then this air passes thru the heater if the driver's control is set warmer than full cold.

Low 40's is about the best any car will do, by design. Once it has reached whre the compressor cycles off on evaporator temperature, anything you might do to the refrigerant system will not make the vents colder.

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