Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

Provided by www.ACkits.com

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Search Auto AC Forum Archives

New Compressor bad or orifice tube?

ryan.h on Sun June 15, 2008 6:05 PM User is offline

Year: 1995
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Prix
Engine Size: 3.1
Refrigerant Type: R134A
Ambient Temp: 80F
Pressure Low: 50
Pressure High: 100

Okay, long story short, I bought a reman compressor, new accumulator, new orifice tube, and installed them last night along with new o-rings everywhere. Readings were 40psi/250psi and it cooled perfect... 40 degrees from the vents! Beautiful! Job well done! Right?

Well, something changed from then till this morning. Only slightly cold air coming out of the vents. Checked the pressures and was getting a higher than normal low side reading, and lower than normal high side reading (60psi low, 200psi high). When I installed the new orifice tube, I noticed it slid in rather easily. The old one was kind of tough to get out. So I evac'd the system and installed a new one and recharged about half way. Pressures were 50/100. I still don't know if the compressor is at fault or if the orifice tube o-ring is leaking, letting the high side pressure escape too fast.

Thoughts on how to proceed? Should I try to find a more snug o-ring that will fit?

TRB on Sun June 15, 2008 8:55 PM User is offlineView users profile

Charge it fully and post back the readings. No way to tell what's going on with a half charged system, especially with a V5 compressor!!

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

ryan.h on Sun June 15, 2008 9:38 PM User is offline

60/200 is the full charge readings

TRB on Sun June 15, 2008 10:23 PM User is offlineView users profile

Did you pump the system down with a vacuum pump before charging? How much refrigerant have you charged the system with at this point?

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

ryan.h on Sun June 15, 2008 10:23 PM User is offline

I'll add that the orifice tube temperature differential is pretty substantial, so I am leaning towards internal compressor failure. I just don't know why it would fail overnight when it wasn't being used. I guess springing the extra $40 for the new one was a better idea than the remanufactured one. Because now I get to do it again.

Edited: Sun June 15, 2008 at 10:25 PM by ryan.h

ryan.h on Sun June 15, 2008 10:25 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
Did you pump the system down with a vacuum pump before charging? How much refrigerant have you charged the system with at this point?

Yes, always. The complete fill is 32 oz refrigerant, but it has always worked perfectly with 2 cans (24oz).... at least until I replaced the compressor due to a case leak. Or rather, it was working fine yesterday at this time with the "new" compressor.

Edited: Sun June 15, 2008 at 10:27 PM by ryan.h

mk378 on Sun June 15, 2008 10:35 PM User is offline

Try tapping on the compressor around the control valve area, maybe the valve is stuck. (Don't hit it hard enough to leave a mark in case you have to return it.)

TRB on Sun June 15, 2008 10:36 PM User is offlineView users profile

What was done with the oil? Was the original oil left in the system and how much was added back? You really need to have the correct amount of oil and refrigerant in the system in my opinion. I don't see how you can properly diagnose the system any other way. You state this is a remanufactured compressor, by which company?

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

ryan.h on Sun June 15, 2008 10:37 PM User is offline

heh... I already read the other thread similar to this one, and tried the hammer trick. Low side pressure didn't budge. Someone on another forum suggested the reed valve internal to the compressor may be leaking.

ryan.h on Sun June 15, 2008 10:39 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
What was done with the oil? Was the original oil left in the system and how much was added back? You really need to have the correct amount of oil and refrigerant in the system in my opinion. I don't see how you can properly diagnose the system any other way. You state this is a remanufactured compressor, by which company?

hmm, good point. I assumed replacing the compressor and accumulator would necessitate a full oil charge. So I added 8 oz split to both. Would that be incorrect? And if so, why was it working fine yesterday? Good readings and cold air.

I believe this is a "factory air" compressor.

Edited: Sun June 15, 2008 at 10:40 PM by ryan.h

TRB on Sun June 15, 2008 10:45 PM User is offlineView users profile

8 ounces is correct, but if you did not flush the condenser and evaporator. That could be part of the problem along with the Factory Air Reman. Too much oil is just as bad as not enough. Your listed pressures seem to indicate this more than a defective control valve in my opinion.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

ryan.h on Tue June 17, 2008 2:20 PM User is offline

Just an update, took the reman compressor back, installed a NEW compressor, and pressures are now 40/240. Ice cold air. I love it! I hope it stays that way this time. *crosses fingers*

TRB on Tue June 17, 2008 2:26 PM User is offlineView users profile

With 24 ounces of refrigerant or 32?

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Back to Automotive Air Conditioning Forum

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Copyright © 2016 Arizona Mobile Air Inc.