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Reviving long unused A/C

henryk2112 on Sun March 08, 2009 4:58 AM User is offline

Year: 1983
Make: Oldsmobile
Model: 98 Regency Sedan
Engine Size: 307
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 75
Pressure Low: 45
Pressure High: n/a
Country of Origin: United States

Hi all,

I bought the car in question about 2 months ago. Just for the heck of it, I decided to add some 134a to the system to see if I could get the compressor to kick on. I know that's not the best method, but I wanted to know what I've got.

I let the can sit for a while with the engine idling, and eventually, the compressor kicked on. Almost immediately, the engine stalled.
Once I got it restarted, I held the throttle open to keep it running, thinking I might have a bad idle load compensator. The compressor started to spark, smoke, and whine.

I shut the car down and let it sit. Then I restarted it one last time for about 30 seconds, the compressor kicked on and the car stayed running. No smoke or spark, just a little whining. No cold air, of course.

So, my question...is it safe to assume that the compressor is toast? I really don't have the funds to farm out the work or replace every single part, but I DO have access to a manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, and some more 134a.

Assuming the lines, condenser, and evaporator are ok, what parts are an absolute must to change along with the compressor?
Do I need to replace the accumulator and orifice tube also? Anything else?

Thanks in advance!


-Henry

bohica2xo on Sun March 08, 2009 7:33 PM User is offline

That R4 is now a doorstop.

The debris from it's demise are now spread into the system. At the very least, you will need a new compressor, accumulator & orifice tube.

You should flush the condensor to remove any compressor debris. The hose set probably has mufflers in it, which means you can't flush it. Your choices are replace it, or roll the dice & re-use it.

Since you plan to convert to 134a, you will need a good set of conversion fittings, and an O ring set as well. Basically you will need to break the system down into the component parts, and flush the condensor, evaporator & any lines without mufflers. Then add back the proper oil charge, new O rings, new compressor & accumulator.

You should adjust the cycling switch for 134a once you get the system running again.

B.

-------------------------
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

henryk2112 on Thu March 12, 2009 1:09 AM User is offline

Thanks for your response. I'm pricing out components and it looks like it won't be too bad. One question: what's the cycling switch and what adjustment(s) do they typically need?

Chick on Thu March 12, 2009 5:51 AM User is offlineView users profile

The cycling switch is a two wire switch on or near your accumulator, and you can adjust them by turning the screw about one turn counter clockwise. to get the system to cycle around 21 PSI.. As shown in the below pic.. Just remember that if you're in a hot and humid climate your system isn't going to cycle much.. The hotter it is, the more heat being removed, and the higher the low side will be...



If you're pricing things, check out Ackits.com for your parts, they also have new cycling switches. Yours may not adjust well being so old.. You can call them, or e-mail them at null Ackits.com for compressor, accumulator, O tube, cycling switch, and BVA Auto 100 oil.. You can change the parts yourself, and if you don't have a vacuum pump, bring it to a shop for charging.. Hope this helps..

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

henryk2112 on Fri March 13, 2009 12:33 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: Chick
The cycling switch is a two wire switch on or near your accumulator, and you can adjust them by turning the screw about one turn counter clockwise. to get the system to cycle around 21 PSI.. As shown in the below pic.. Just remember that if you're in a hot and humid climate your system isn't going to cycle much.. The hotter it is, the more heat being removed, and the higher the low side will be...







If you're pricing things, check out Ackits.com for your parts, they also have new cycling switches. Yours may not adjust well being so old.. You can call them, or e-mail them at null Ackits.com for compressor, accumulator, O tube, cycling switch, and BVA Auto 100 oil.. You can change the parts yourself, and if you don't have a vacuum pump, bring it to a shop for charging.. Hope this helps..

NickD on Fri March 13, 2009 5:40 AM User is offline

You are sure it was properly converted to R-134A? Could have been some R-12 in there and just topped off with R-134a, been literally thousands like that. The accumulator had to be changed to an R-134a compatible unit, or it was destroyed putting debris all over the interior of the system.

henryk2112 on Fri March 13, 2009 2:16 PM User is offline

I don't know the complete history of the A/C other than what I can see, which is that the compressor is an old, rusty reman, and the system has 134a fittings over the original R-12.

My plan is to evac what's left. I will replace the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, and line. I plan to flush the condenser and evaporator after putting a vacuum on the whole system to see if anything else (i.e. condenser/ evaporator) leaks. I will look at the cycling switch, too.

I would be happy to purchase parts from the forum's sponsor, since I am local. Does anyone know if the reman compressors our sponsors sell are good quality?

Thanks!

bohica2xo on Fri March 13, 2009 2:43 PM User is offline

AMA is careful with the reman vendors. If you choose to go reman, I would say they have units as good as can be had.

A new R4 is less than 250 bucks. Personally I avoid any reman compressors if I have a choice, but I tend to keep a car for 15 years or so.

You are local to Tim, so it may be cheaper to have AMA rebuild the hose set - check both prices first. Your existing retrofit fittings are usually a fair indicator of the quality of the retrofit that was done. Replace them if they are cheap junk.

You are on the right path, a good cleanup, flush, new seals etc. will give you a quality system. Make sure the fan clutch is up to the job, especially in the desert with a 134a conversion.

B.

-------------------------
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

TRB on Fri March 13, 2009 3:13 PM User is offlineView users profile

While we will stand behind a R4 reman from our source. I prefer new on R4, FS10 and Khien compressors.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

2005Equinox on Sat March 14, 2009 5:43 AM User is offline

I would assume the compressor as toast. They dont seem to last really long on these. Both of my B-bodies are on their 3rd compressor with 116,000 on the Bonneville and 119,000 on the Caprice. As for the rest just follow what the rest are saying. Whast shape is the Regency in? I love the GM fulls sized cars like that before they went FWD.

-------------------------
2008 Chevrolet Impala LS
1981 Pontiac Bonneville


2007 Sears Craftsman Lawn Tractor


1985 Chevrolet Caprice


1986 John Deere 165 lawn tractor

Cussboy on Sat March 14, 2009 10:15 AM User is offline

My 1994 GMC Suburban 190K miles dual air is now on its third R4 compressor, all brand new (Arizona). Even my local mechanic said not to go "rebuilt" with these.

henryk2112 on Mon March 16, 2009 4:11 PM User is offline

I think the difference of $120 and getting more years out of it is worth it to me. The car is in great shape (88k miles, mostly original paint and interior) and I don't want to overinvest, but I also don't want to spend a lifetime replacing "lifetime" reman compressors. Do it one and do it right.

henryk2112 on Tue March 24, 2009 3:02 AM User is offline

Quick update, I finally got to borrow my friend's vacuum pump. I hooked it all up and applied vacuum for about 15 mins. I kept running the vacuum until it got down to 27hg. I shut down the vacuum and closed it's port. I left everything attached to the manifold gauges and left the low side of the gauge open. I've been checking once an hour. After almost 3 hours, it looks like it's lost maybe 0.5" of vacuum. I'll leave it overnight and see what happens.

I'm no expert, but it seems to me like it's holding pretty well.

Thoughts?

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