Year: 87
Make: Toyota
Model: Celica
Engine Size: 2.0
Refrigerant Type: R12
Ambient Temp: 85
Country of Origin: United States
My system stopped working so I added some refrigerant and sniffed it. A leak had developed at the compressor manifold. Even with the leak the system was cooling very well until it lost charge. I had the remaining charge captured by a shop. I decided to remove the compressor and replace the o-rings and the receiver dryer. Since I had the compressor (10p15c) off I decided to look at the oil as well. Master cool lists 8.75 oz of mineral oil for my 87 Celica's system.
When I tipped the compressor over and spun shaft no oil came out. Is this normal once system has had the R12 removed? I am planning to have the shop do the final recharge and add any additional oil that is needed. Should I put some oil directly into the compressor before reinstalling it or will it be filled during the final re-charge? I have read that it is good to put 3 or 4 oz of oil directly into the compressor through the high and low pressure ports. Is this correct?
Does oil get added anywhere else before the system is put back together and recharged?
Thanks in advance....
If it was mine, I'd add 4 oz. refrigeration mineral oil to the compressor, turn it by hand a few times, and keep it R-12. Last time I pulled a bad compressor out of my Mazda truck (R12) it had no oil in it, and samilar for my R4 compressor on my Suburban (R134a, 1994) which was still turning, but had leaked. I think you lost some refrigeration oil through your leaks, and if you don't add some, your compressor will not live much longer.
Your system lost charge and the oil pooled in the evap and quit returning to the compressor. Did the shop that recovered your refrigerant note any oil removal with their equipment. I would be very careful not to add too much back; 1 or 2 ounces maybe, but it is all just a WAG.
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Thanks to you both for the replies. The tech at the shop did not mention any oil captured while pumping out the old refrigerant. I had not considered the leak as a potential for oil loss and I did not know the oil could pool in the evap. I think that a flush may be the way to go. Once the system is clean the oil can be added as a known quantity rather than a guess.
I think I will add a small amount of oil, then let the tech do what he thinks best as far as a flush and/or adding oil during the recharge. I will not be running the system before returning it to the shop.
Would it be better to install the new receiver dryer after the flush? Does it even matter? It would save me some money to install it before I take it to the tech.
Flushing and starting from a clean dry system is always best, but realize that an A/C flush involves taking the system apart to flush each (flushable) component separately. It's not like a transmission "flush" where you just hook the complete unit up to a machine. So it's rather labor-intensive.
I'd go with what HECAT suggested just add a small amount of oil (because you have a new receiver drier). Also a pressure test with some other gas should be conducted on R-12 systems before charging. Sometimes an o-ring will hold vacuum but leak under pressure.
Check with the shop you use about flushing. Do not reassemble system or install new parts until the flushing is done.
Flushing will be the only way to know exactly how much oil to add, but in this case you may be OK without flushing.
I did miss the R/D change (oops), so I do agree a little more oil for that will be needed.
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Okay, didn't realize the flush procedure was so involved (thought it's like Trans flush). Now I just need to clarify 2 things...
1 - I have the compressor off the car and the manifold off of the compressor. Do I just pour the oil directly into the compressor through the openings where the manifold mounts? Does it matter which opening? High pressure side or low?
2 - Should I expect to see any oil come out of the old RD once I remove it and turn it upside down? Do I add any to it directly to the RD?
Edited: Wed July 14, 2010 at 4:36 PM by jaguare22
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