Year: 1994
Make: Dodge/Mitsubishi
Model: Stealth RT/ 3000GT SL
Engine Size: 3.0
Refrigerant Type: R134A
Ambient Temp: 90
Pressure Low: NA
Pressure High: NA
Country of Origin: United States
The clutch bearing is making a lot of noise with the AC on and less noise with the ac off, so it sounds like it needs to be replaced. The compressor is a Mitsubishi MSC105CVS and still blows cold air great - just as it did before the bearing problem. Can the bearing be replaced in this clutch and if so, is any bearing make preferable - I see Santech, Four Seasons, Nachi. The dealer sells a clutch replacement at about $250, so I am willing to put in work to replace the bearing.
The clutch gap it is on the upper limit of the spec at .020" - spec is .010 - .020". A new replacement belt was tensioned to spec. The clutch pulley spins freely by hand, but I have heard some clutch bearing in these units seal goes bad and then lose the grease. No oil, grease or dirt is around the compressor clutch or fittings.
Thanks.
Edited: Tue August 10, 2010 at 2:40 PM by edge
Wouldn't the AC clutch bearing be "locked up" and not turning when the AC compressor is on? Noise when AC is off seems indicative of a bad aC clutch bearing. Are there other pulleys like idlers along that belt?
Wait for an expert to chime in here....
I'm far from an expert, but the first thing I would do is remove the belt and spin all the pulleys by hand to see which one is noisy, also try to wobble the pulley side to side to see if there is slack in the bearing.
Bearing replacement is very straightforward if you are able to find a supplier and purchase the bearing alone instead of part of a clutch kit. Remove the clutch plate, remove the snap ring, and pull the pulley / bearing assembly off with a gear puller. Press the bad bearing out of the pulley and press in a new one.
Edited: Tue August 10, 2010 at 2:30 PM by mk378
You make a good point there. It's certainly best not to push on the shaft that way especially if the bearing doesn't want to come right off.
Do make sure that the cap like piece is the proper size to engage the metal nose of the compressor and doesn't just push on the seal, which is certain to damage it.
Prior to purchasing tools and bearing, suggest to complete evaluate the clutch assembly. The normal failure of this bearing is associated with an over heated clutch. If this is the case, considering the compressor and its failure history the repair maybe a bit more intensive.
The failure of scroll compressor can contaminated the system to such a point that it may be necessary to replace the entire AC system. The Honda CRV is a prime example, however, this vehicle utilizes a very similar compressor.
Remove the compressor and thoroughly inspect not only the clutch assembly, but also the amount and condition of lubricant that drains from the compressor. If there are metal fillings or if the lubricant is dark discolored it maybe that the unit is past repair.
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson
Normally the clutch will be discolored...some turn a rusty brown color....the drive plate paint/coating will blister. When you remove the drive plate....look for heat marks in the clutch (metal bluing) or excessive slippage marks on the drive and pulley fact.
Dark lube may or may not be indicated in the 'slight glass'. We have seen systems opened and the compressor was heavily contaminated and the drier or accumulator may not indicate the same conditions. The key is a sufficient amount of refrigerant to move the lube through out the system. But normally..yes.
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson
Edited: Tue August 10, 2010 at 11:45 PM by iceman2555
I did a quick check of the clutch externals and pulley and don't see any signs of overheating. I also rotated the compressor with the drive plate disk and didn't feel any binding. But, I'll disassemble to check this more thoroughly.
If it turns out to just be a bad clutch bearing are there any recommended brands? I believe rotor is peened to hold the clutch bearing.
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