Year: 1999
Make: Saab
Model: 9-3 convertible
Engine Size: 2.0l
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 67
Pressure Low: 20
Pressure High: 150
Country of Origin: United States
Hello All-
I would like some feedback on if IâÂÂm on the right track with troubleshooting my problem. Out of the clear blue driving home from work, I lost the A/C (cool_warm air from the vents) in my 99 Saab.
When I got home (temperature right around 70) I hooked up my gauges and found, at idle, the HP to be at 150 and the LP at 20. As soon as I increased the RPMs I watched the LP drop to near zero (might even be a vacuum). There was a little bit of an increase on the HP, but not much.
My thought at this point is my TXV is stuck closed, or near to that. Before I replace (or remove and inspect) I would like some feedback from the ProâÂÂs.
Thanks
Jim
Make sure the system has the correct charge level.
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Pressures like that are typical when testing in low ambient. It could be reheating from the heater core. If the suction line back to the compressor is getting very cold, the air from the vents should also be cold. The compressor shoud cycle off before ice forms on the line. If the evaporator frosts over on the outside you will get reduced volume of air that is not very cold.
Edited: Sun September 30, 2012 at 1:10 PM by mk378
That is a interested thought. So the pressure(s) maybe correct for the ambient temp.
When you say "reheating from the heater core", to make sure i understand, are you saying that the heater core is warming up the cold air from the Evaporator? So that would mean a problem with the air blender door.
I will check the temps on the lines tomorrow.
Thanks
How common are shops that are willing to remove the 134a, weigh it, and reinstall it?
Never looked for one. Can someone recommend one on Long Island, NY?
It looks like i got a leak, the follow day the HP was down 20 PSI. I had UV dye in the system from the last time i need to track down a leak.
I just received a Mastercool detection kit and waited for the sun to go down. Pretty cool to see the UV dye all over the place, the UV is coming from the clutch plate so I will assume it is the front seal of the compressor.
Is it worth it to replace the seal (that is if it can be purchased) or just replace the compressor?
Replace the seal, so much cheaper.
Found the seal kit, but unable to find any info on replacing it.
Any direction would be helpful.
Thanks
Jim
Any idea what brand / kind of compressor you are dealing with ?
God bless
Wyr
Hi salth2oj The Saab 9-3 OG (98-02) uses a Sanden TRS105 scroll compressor. Once you remove the clutch hub nut you can usually pull the clutch hub off by hand and the clutch pulley too after removing the snap ring. If the hub is stuck then you may need a hub puller. I've run across some compressors that don't have threaded holes in the hub for a hub puller, so if yours is like that AND stuck then go ahead and get a new hub or clutch because you WILL ruin the hub during disassembly. The hub is splined and one of the splines is larger so it will only go on one way. Don't force it, just look carefully at the splines.
The lip seal is removed/ installs from the front after you remove the retaining snap ring.
9-3s don't start the condensor fan until pressure is very high, the compressor runs quite hot . I would do myself a favor and change the clutch bearing while you're replacing the seal, and pay close attention to the clutch gap. They have a habit of trashing the bearing and the inner race spins on the housing, ruining a very expensive compressor.
The hardest part is probably removing and replacing the serpentine belt, it's a monster. Don't forget to recalibrate the ACC computer when you're finished, to do so start the car and press AUTO and OFF at the same time then release. After it runs a self test for about 30 seconds any new or uncorrected AC fault codes will show in the AC display.
If I remember right, the condensor fan should start when HP is around 325 PSI, watch your gauge pressure and check that the fan does in fact start.. Bad pressure switches are a common problem on these cars.
I'm sure you can search the forum and find a good post on replacing a standard lip seal from the front. Don't forget to pick up a shaft seal protector-
Good luck. Henry/autocool.se
Jim,
Advice for first timers is to replace the entire TR compressor assembly instead of attempting a new shaft seal. It may be worth checking out if it is basically the same TRS-105 scroll as the Chrysler "B"/RAM van.
The TRS-105 seal replacement is best left to the experienced scroll pros who have the TR tools and TR know-how. It's not a garden variety seal change because there is a front shaft bearing forward of the seal which also must be replaced.
But you bet your own time & money.
hotrodac
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Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod
Edited: Tue April 23, 2013 at 9:26 PM by ice-n-tropics
Cont.
So, to remove the front shaft support bearing (which has had the grease removed by the refrigerant solvent leaking from the shaft seal), first pop out the front grease seal. Next, cut up and remove all the plastic ball retainer ring.
Next, gather all the balls where they are all touching each other along one side and pop out the inner race.
Then get a outer race split removal tool which nests into the outer ball race when the tool is expanded. Use a puller to grab the expanded tool which is wedged into the outer ball race and pop out the outer race.
See what a PITA this is?
hotrodac
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Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod
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