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Is this black death? (Pics)

One Sock on Sat October 27, 2012 11:49 PM User is offline

Year: 1994
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Engine Size: 4
Refrigerant Type: r134

I'm replacing the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, and hoses on my 94 Explorer. The old orifice tube looks pretty cruddy. I'm wondering whether I can flush out the condenser, or if there's too much crud in it and I should just replace it?


HECAT on Sun October 28, 2012 12:17 PM User is offline

The metal fines on the screens are about all that can pass thru the condenser, so if there is a large amount of metal debris, it is in the condenser. The lack of oil and the dry appearance at the end of the OT would make me concerned about the presence of a sealer.

I would first test your flush chemical choice on this contaminated OT to confirm it can "cut" the residue. But if you cannot back flush the condenser with a high flow method to move the debris out; the chemicals effectiveness is moot, and it may just be best to replace the condenser.

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FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

One Sock on Sun October 28, 2012 12:54 PM User is offline

What effect would the sealer have on the evaporator; is it likely to be in bad shape too?

HECAT on Mon October 29, 2012 6:35 PM User is offline

Sealer will be everywhere, if it is sealer.

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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

iceman2555 on Mon October 29, 2012 9:35 PM User is offlineView users profile

This is not the original 'black death' of earlier days. That failure does not typically occur with the the FS10 unit. This discolored lubricant could be an indication of a severely restricted condenser. The lack of metal debris on the orifice does not indicate that there is not a restriction. The 'black' color can be traced to lubricant breakdown due to excessive discharge pressures. There does appear to be some type of 'jellied' type material on the tube, this could be the result of sealer being added to the system, however, it appears to be a minimal amount.
Now for the serious downside, it is doubtful that this system can be adequately flushed to remove ALL traces of this material. A strong suggestion would be to replace the entire system. Changes in flow dynamics of later model evaps often prevent a total clean out of the system. The flush can be accomplished with a suitable chemical and a flush machine. It is HIGHLY doubtful that the typical blow thru flush will remove this material. Failure to totally clean the system will result in a failure of the replacement compressor. Keep in mind that a AC system is a self cleaning system...it will clean itself during operation. However, this will normally require multiple compressor replacements and elevated repair cost and units returned as defective when they are failing due to lack of proper installation.
No one wishes to hear the words 'entire system' but in this case, it is strongly suggested. HECAT produces a great flush machine to help with this type repair, the downside for a DIYer is the cost factor. The cost of the replacement system will be less, but the machine is a great addition to a AC shop.
OH....while at this, if you decide to attempt to flush this system, stay away from the oil (ester) based products and those products that evaporate rapidly. The rapid evaporative chemicals will not stay in liquid form long enough to clean this material.
What ever you decide, have the system professional recharged by someone who will utilize the correct equipment.
Good luck....think you are going to need it.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

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