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R4 compressor pulley

Turbo on Sat July 06, 2013 10:59 PM User is offline

Is there an easy way to press the pulley back on to a r4 compressor without taking it out of the car. I was able to pull it off with a pulling tool but I can not get it to go all the way on for the snap ring. I really don't want to take the compressor out of the car. It is is 99% of the way on. Just need a little more.

NickD on Sun July 07, 2013 4:37 AM User is offline

Idler pulley has never been a problem, has that peened in double roll bearing on the inside. At most after removing that snap ring, always find a bead of rust at the end of that compressor tube housing, have to clean that off. Re-peening a new bearing is has been a problem, just like glass that cast iron hardens. GM use to use a snap ring to hold that bearing in, and should have stuck with it.

GM did make a way overpriced peening tool to hold the outer race of that bearing in, really hate this, is space in there to either cut in a groove and go back to a snap ring. Would just drill, counter sink three 120 degree holes in it using three flat head screws with the tips over lapping the outer race of that bearing. Some use Loctite bearing seal, others depend upon the rust to hold it in. Must be a bit cautious, don't want that pulley flying off.

Least the inner race is held on by a snap ring, with a new bearing installed, that tube surface can be cleaned, you don't want slop on that inner race so it won't spin on that tube. So at most, using a brass drift on that inner race, some minor tapping on that inner race with a hammer should seat it.

For that clutch disk, that is where you want rust on the shaft using a special installer tool. An interference fit and you don't want that clutch disk flying off. Another piece of crap with the R-4 is that stupid tin cover depending on around a six inch O'ring for a refrigerant seal, cover is a POS cold roll steel housing that rusts like crazy causing leaks.

If you were accustomed to working with the A-6 that was used for years, get the notion that whoever came up with the POS R-4 should be shot for the misery they have caused.

But don't blame the engineers, blame those stupid marketing guys and those way overpaid idiot CEO's that darn near bankrupted GM making this crap. As an engineer, either had to follow this BS or get canned. Got canned anyway, first Canada, then Mexico, now China.

GM Tech on Sun July 07, 2013 8:20 AM User is offline

I'll provide the short answer-- yes- just just tap on the inner race-(what is sliding over the aluminum front head snout)- there is a special tool to use that does this- but you can also use the correct sized socket (albeit a rather large one) use a hammer and a punch to tap around the circle if you have too- it is no big deal as long as you don't influence the bearing package by hitting on the outer race..

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

NickD on Sun July 07, 2013 11:31 AM User is offline

Ha, did I get carried away again, have to see my therapist about this.

Never got into the reason for removing the idler pulley, either a bad bearing or a burnt up clutch coil, or both. Or could be trying to remove that end shell to replace that large O-ring, but this is a complete waste of your time.

iceman2555 on Sun July 07, 2013 4:04 PM User is offlineView users profile

Go by one of the mass auto retail locations and they will rent or loan you the correct tools....makes the installation and setting the air gap a breeze.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

Turbo on Sun July 07, 2013 8:27 PM User is offline

Thank you for the replies. Room is tight and it is hard to get a good swing with a hammer. I was hoping there might be a tool for this so I don"t have to remove the compressor to get the swing.

Turbo on Sun July 07, 2013 8:27 PM User is offline

Thank you for the replies. Room is tight and it is hard to get a good swing with a hammer. I was hoping there might be a tool for this so I don"t have to remove the compressor to get the swing.

Edited: Sun July 07, 2013 at 8:27 PM by Turbo

iceman2555 on Sun July 07, 2013 9:23 PM User is offlineView users profile

Should you take the time to truly read our responses...it was indicated that local retail orientated parts locations would have the correct tools available for loan or rent.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

NickD on Mon July 08, 2013 5:19 AM User is offline

Well, this question deals with just the pulley, we haven't gotten that far to install the clutch disk. GMtech pointed out using a large socket that fits the inner race, which I have done myself. But wasn't thinking. And just light taps, no place to use a sledge hammer.

GM Tech on Mon July 08, 2013 7:34 AM User is offline

Hopefully you took the upper fan shroud off to gain much more room.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

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