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alternator problem

Dougflas on Wed August 24, 2005 4:30 PM User is offline

Year: 1998
Make: chev
Model: astrovan
Engine Size: 4.3

Does anyone know if this vehicle's charging system is computer controlled? Charging guage on dash shows not charging, battery voltage runing is down...11.57volts. I'm leaning toward the alternator being bad..only 47,000 miles. It's a bear (WHAT VAN ISN'T?) to remove plus they want both arms and legs for a replacement. I remember the times it was easy to diwassemble alternators and fix them in house.

thanks

Doug

TRB on Wed August 24, 2005 4:55 PM User is offlineView users profile

Send me an email I have some data for you.

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NickD on Wed August 24, 2005 5:22 PM User is offline

Your alternator is:

Description.. OE-Part.

ALTERNATOR 10480167 CS130DBHT -: REC CS SERIES

REG DR CS130D 19009702

It is not computer controlled and only requires 12 volts at the "I-F" terminal plus must be spinning to output a voltage. Really not that difficult to take apart, but you must desolder the rectifier leads first to open it, the voltage regulator is mounted under the rear cover for access. Can't blame the OE's for soldering, lots of liability suits when the older screws came loose. Always two sides to the story.

Can't say why yours is not working until I test it, but if you want a reasonably priced rebuilt, would recommend NAPA's top quality unit, remanufactured by the same rebuilder that rebuilds for the dealers. With the engine off, ignition switch in the run position, check the I-F terminal for 12 volts.


Dougflas on Wed August 24, 2005 5:34 PM User is offline

thanks to both Tim and Nick. A new one is 135.00 bananas outright and rebuilt is 109.00 w/exchange. Sort os a no brainer. Both have the same warranty...lifetime. You know what that means..when it fails, it's life is over!!! Will get into it on Saturday. Hate working on vans!!!

NickD on Thu August 25, 2005 8:26 AM User is offline

Lifetime infers the Twilight-Zone alternators, historically, these alternators lacked the fail-safe characteristics of the OE unit. But maybe they got their act together in the last couple of years. 11.5 volt output is a lot better than 100 volts output that can fry your electronic system, but they say, your vehicle is old and that happens. Would be cautious on anything that is warranted for life.

meaux on Thu August 25, 2005 8:53 AM User is offlineView users profile

I'm sure you've had the battery checked under a load, and at the terminals while running?

Batteries are funny things...Regular batteries have really gone to crap lately, and now, I only buy Optima batteries. All my cars/truck has one except the Honda (size problem). I have one mounted on it's side in the fender of a 72 Porsche 911, that thing has got to be at least 9 years old. No corrosion at terminals, ever.

I don't work for Optima...blah, blah, blah. Just very satisfied.

Just a thought...





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Lazy bum who lives off his wife.

01 BMW 530i Sport, 92 Porsche 968, 85 F150, 72 911, 08 GM SUV, 01' Ford Lightnin'

Edited: Thu August 25, 2005 at 8:57 AM by meaux

Dougflas on Sat August 27, 2005 7:24 PM User is offline

Well, today was the day. If you heard a sound like thunder, it was me cussing. The regulator was most likely the problem but as expected, no one can supply them on a Saturday. Special order, 2 or 3 days if they are still available to the local part houses. To top it off, I'd have to get special sockets from the Snappy guy just to service the alternator. So I bought a new one ( $134.00 no core needed), not rebuilt, had them test it first since there was no way I wanted to do this twice. Hope I never need the lifetime warranty.

This will be the last van I ever pruchase....way too hard to work on. I would have liked to "reach out and touch" the engineer that designed this vehicle. Damn, I miss my 57 Chevy.

NickD on Sun August 28, 2005 6:06 AM User is offline

Torx sockets and bits are a part of life if you want to do anything on just about anything, and you also have tamper proof Torx that requires even another set of bits. Not that just about all the auto stores sell them so they aren't tamper proof anymore. The CS-130D that you have is not nearly as bad as the CS-144 to take apart, the latter uses a one time collet jammed very hard into the pulley that is impossible to remove, I have to drill those out. All use rolled in front bearings that are glued solid to the shaft, those I cut off to save the shaft and make a bearing retainer plate to hold the new one in. GM calls these throwaway alternators.

Did the new alternator solve your problem?

Dougflas on Sun August 28, 2005 9:45 AM User is offline

Yes, the alternator solved the problem. But it did contribute to another problem....woke up with a small headache from the beer that I had to drink while changing it.

TXAB on Sun August 28, 2005 6:44 PM User is offline



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