Try bringing the engine speed up to ~1,800 RPM. At idle speed, the compressor isn't doing much of anything.

A couple additional questions come to mind: Did you replace the Orifice Tube, or clean the original one? (It's in the evaporator.) Did you re-install it in the right direction? The correct OT should be black where the screen is, white where the brass tube is (indicating a .072" orifice), and ha...

If there's any doubt about the compressor, replace it, the R/D, the condenser (also serves as a debris filter), and flush the rest--or have the job done by a pro. In either scenario, do it right the first time so that you don't have to repeat the job and the expense later.

As I mentioned that truck didn't have anything working properly on the ac system and the high/low switches were bypassed in some sort or fashion so when you turned ac on from inside the cab, the compressor was gonna spin regardless. So it didn't work and I took it off and put that "new" c...

What is the best method for eliminating the possibility of a disintegrated compressor? A disintegrating compressor will usually make a lot of noise when it's running, or it will seize-up entirely and throw the drive belt. In extreme cases, parts can break internally and blow-out a chunk of the hous...

This^^, tbirdtbird. I would say needlessly complex in most cases. OP, if we can "assume" (there's that word again) that the wiring, PCM/ECM, and sensors are okay (and they probably are on a Toyota), there's really no reason why you can't tackle this job yourself if you're accustomed to wor...

Some additional considerations: If my memory is correct, I believe your car has a scroll-type compressor with a thermal switch (TS), which costs almost as much as a brand-new compressor that comes with a new clutch and TS. If it turns out that the TS has failed, consider replacing the entire compres...

In a nutshell, the ECM/PCM analyzes various sensor input from the vehicle and sends small electrical signals to the compressor control valve depending on how much demand (heat load) is placed on the A/C system. The control valve then changes the compressor's piston stroke (displacement), via the ang...

With that kind of mileage, your Toyota is nearly broken in :lol: But the compressor might be getting a bit "tired.," as tbirdtbird inferred. If you're planning to keep the car, consider replacing the compressor with a brand-new one. A new compressor comes with a warranty, a new clutch, and...

If memory serves, I don't believe the compressor on your Jeep has a clutch. I think it's a direct-drive, variable-displacement compressor with an electronic control valve. If you jumped the control valve directly to battery voltage, you probably destroyed it. That's why I advise never to jump anythi...