Tom, I'm trying to understand what the parts are in your first two photos (the ones with the Shrader valves), but I can't quite make them out. Your third photo shows an LP adapter (blue ferrule) that mates to an R134a LP port on the quick-connect side, and what looks to be a 1/4" SAE flare fitt...

bohica2xo wrote:If the compressor is actually turning at those pressures it is done.

Run the engine rpm up to 2,000 and watch the high side - want does it do?

This.

Just curious: Does your car have R12 or R134a?

I don't think you explicitly said, but I'm guessing the compressor isn't coming on. I'm not very familiar with your particular vehicle, but I wonder whether a low refrigerant charge could be causing the problem. After 22 years--especially if the A/C has never been touched-- it's very possible that i...

If the LP hose has a major leak, I'm pretty sure there won't be any refrigerant left in the system. But to be safe, wear protective goggles anyway in case refrigerant rushes out under pressure. You definitely don't want any liquid refrigerant in your eyes.
Let us know how it goes.

If there is zero pressure in the system, there is nothing to recover. I would go ahead with replacing the leaking hose, as well as the receiver/dryer or accumulator. Then evacuate and recharge according to the refrigerant specification on the under-hood decal.

The low-pressure-only gauges that come with the refrigerant cans are notoriously inaccurate and unreliable. These cans, known as "death kits" in the trade, often contain refrigerant and sealer. You definitely DO NOT want any sealer in your A/C system. Trust me on that. To get a better hand...

Oh, and I forgot to mention that it is normal for both the LP and HP to be close to the same when the system is off and that they'll roughly equal the ambient temperature.

Just a thought: It's possible that the system had sealer in it at some point. Sealer can cause all sorts of long-term havoc with a mobile A/C system.

I don't think you mentioned whether it's cooling. But based on your higher than expected LP reading (at an unknown engine RPM and ambient temperature), I'd bet vent temps are rather warm. Since it's impossible to tell from pressures alone whether a system is properly charged, I think I'd start be re...

Yes, looks like a parallel-flow condenser to me, too. Good! Upthread, you mentioned that the HP dropped quite a bit when spraying the condenser with water, suggesting insufficient airflow across the condenser. Since you installed a new electric fan and we assume that it's working as it should, doubl...