The low side dropping below 20 psi (you observed 11 psi) is a problem. Any low pressure below 20 psi will begin to freeze the evaporator core and basically reduce the cooling ability. The low pressure switches are usually adjustable. With a system of that size, 2.75 lbs, 44 ozs, you need to have the...

You have to excuse the snarky replies - some are jealous that some made a fortune as a used car dealer.

If I post that today is Saturday, someone will complain that on another planet in a galaxy far, far away it is actually Tuesday.

Any components being reused should be thoroughly flushed. The evaporator, condenser and hoses should all be flushed. There is really no reason to make new hoses as the myth about the R134a bleeding through the hoses was just that, a myth. Like the Loch Ness Monster. We used 91 or 93% alcohol as a fl...

PAG oil is fine.

Yes, John's method works just fine. Allow the engine to draw in the majority of the refrigerant in the hose is the way to go.

I will tell you that if you have any trash in the system, you must disconnect all of the components, remove the orifice tube and expansion valve, and flush everything (except the drier which you replace) until it runs clear. The newer style condenser must be replaced as they cannot be adequately flu...

They laughed at the gasoline engine too.

I see electric cars in our future. Learn to enjoy the future as it comes.

I remember this debate from years ago. There are some that believe that the green O-rings are superior and those that believe that the black O-rings are superior. I can tell you that we never had an O-ring failure on either as a replacement. I also remember the endless rants about Nylog which I neve...

I don't know how you can build 425 lbs on the high side with 14/56 ounces of refrigerant in the system unless you have a restriction.

That charge represents only 25% of the system's capacity.

You have blockage in the system somewhere. Use compressed air to find the section that is blocked.