With pressures of 29/155, you should now be getting at least some cooling. When you say the evaporator is running at 100 degrees, is that the vent temperature? If so, heated air might be mixing in somehow, possibly a bad blend door, actuator, mis-adjusted control cable, or a bad hot-water valve. Wha...

Lots of questions for you to help us diagnose this. Is the static pressure on the HP side also around 30 PSI? If so, the system is virtually empty of refrigerant. Did you start the engine without turning on the A/C? If so, how did you measure the operating pressures? If the LP side is zero, does the...

I'll offer some thoughts. As I mentioned in another thread, I normally don't recommend topping-off or boosting the refrigerant charge because you never really know exactly how much you have in the system to begin with, and you can't determine the correct charge from pressures, particularly just the ...

Tom, I'm trying to understand what the parts are in your first two photos (the ones with the Shrader valves), but I can't quite make them out. Your third photo shows an LP adapter (blue ferrule) that mates to an R134a LP port on the quick-connect side, and what looks to be a 1/4" SAE flare fitt...

bohica2xo wrote:If the compressor is actually turning at those pressures it is done.

Run the engine rpm up to 2,000 and watch the high side - want does it do?

This.

Just curious: Does your car have R12 or R134a?

I don't think you explicitly said, but I'm guessing the compressor isn't coming on. I'm not very familiar with your particular vehicle, but I wonder whether a low refrigerant charge could be causing the problem. After 22 years--especially if the A/C has never been touched-- it's very possible that i...

If the LP hose has a major leak, I'm pretty sure there won't be any refrigerant left in the system. But to be safe, wear protective goggles anyway in case refrigerant rushes out under pressure. You definitely don't want any liquid refrigerant in your eyes.
Let us know how it goes.

If there is zero pressure in the system, there is nothing to recover. I would go ahead with replacing the leaking hose, as well as the receiver/dryer or accumulator. Then evacuate and recharge according to the refrigerant specification on the under-hood decal.

The low-pressure-only gauges that come with the refrigerant cans are notoriously inaccurate and unreliable. These cans, known as "death kits" in the trade, often contain refrigerant and sealer. You definitely DO NOT want any sealer in your A/C system. Trust me on that. To get a better hand...

Oh, and I forgot to mention that it is normal for both the LP and HP to be close to the same when the system is off and that they'll roughly equal the ambient temperature.