So what i'm gathering is that I need to flush each component ( unhook the lines and run the flush on each and then hook back up) , replace the accumulator, and start over. Right. It's a lot of work to get all the oil out and to re-fill it, but it's something you'll need to do before re-charging the...

Blow it out thoroughly and repeatedly, preferably with nitrogen. Because the evaporator is designed as a low-pressure component, I use no more pressure than 100 PSI to be on the safe side. Lacking a nitrogen set-up, you'll have no choice but to use shop air—the dryer and more filtered, the better.

I definitely hear you. The cost of R-1234yf alone will cause people to shy away.

question 1) I notice these r1234yf does not have a purging valve on the yellow charging hose...is this going to be a problem when charging? Why can't you just unscrew the hose fitting slightly/briefly at the manifold end to purge out air???? Like I did with R134a earlier in the week.... OP, it's no...

I just pulled a new Toyota Schrader out of my stock, and it measures 1/4" at its widest point using calipers.

Tbirdtbird, do you happen to know whether that Mastercool Schrader Valve Removal Tool will work with the larger diameter valves, like those that Toyota uses? From outward appearances, it doesn't seem so.

If you flush the evaporator in situ, try to ensure that you get out all of the flushing chemical, which will cause problems if you inadvertently leave any of it in there.

Glad to learn you got an OEM Denso TXV. Some of the aftermarket valves have proven to be problematic over the last few years. I would replace the compressor now. If you wait, not only will you have to recover, evacuate, and recharge it again but also replace the R/D, which should be changed every ti...

If it's a parallel-flow condenser--and it most likely is--it really can't be flushed. Good decision on replacing it especially since you've taken it this far. Would be a shame not to replace it, and then the compressor gets ruined again. I also advise replacing the accumulator because moisture will ...

The specs that I have for your vehicle (with rear A/C) are 47 ounces net weight of R-134a (2.9 pounds), and 16 fluid ounces of PAG-46. So the amounts of both refrigerant and oil you charged into the system are, unfortunately, all wrong and 'way too much. I advise not running the system any more unti...