First choice: Check with Tim at ACkits.com, this Forum's sponsor, for these hard-to-find parts. He has lots of connections in the industry and might be able to locate just what you need. Second choice: Search for an A/C hose company that can make-up replacement hose and/or hard-line assemblies for M...

A few additional thoughts and questions: When it's not cooling, do you have ambient-temperature air (or heated air) coming from the A/C vents, or no air flowing at all? Wondering why you had to replace virtually the entire system about one year ago. Did the original compressor seize? Might also be w...

When the problem appears, have you checked under the hood to see whether the clutch is engaged and the compressor is running? If the compressor isn't running, the clutch air-gap might be too wide or slightly so, causing the intermittent cooling. When you say "meter," are you referring to a...

One additional question: Do you know exactly how much refrigerant and oil you installed into the system? The specs that I have call for 24 ounces net weight of R-134a and 9.0 fluid ounces of PAG-150, or preferentially, whatever the under-hood decal shows as already mentioned.

The ambient temperature in your area is too low. I recommend waiting until the daily temperature rises to 80°F (27°C) or above. Then, re-test the system.

Right...he'll just find someone else to re-charge it ad infinitum.

The alternator was seized and the a/c clutch was rusted together. It turns fine. The first junkyard one worked great mechanically but leaked. They sent me a second one but that's locked up so I didn't even try to install it. They refunded me and I'm back to square one. I have taken the original one...

To my question: if I have the system empty for servicing, should there be any other parts replaced while I have the opportunity? I don’t mind spending a bit to do things by the book and with others knowledge and experience to get me down the path of success. Some people have mentioned to only repla...

In my humble opinion, the best way to check for leaks is by means of an electronic refrigerant detector, or "sniffer." You might miss leaks in certain crucial areas relying only on UV dye—for instance, the hard-to-access evaporator, or the compressor shaft seal. For the former, you could u...

This is a recurring refrigerant leakage problem on a 20-year-old car (mileage not mentioned). Check the engine mounts closely or just replace them outright. Worn or broken mounts can cause undue movement of the drivetrain that might place a strain on other components, like the A/C hose assembly in q...