Sounds like the actuator just happened to fail at that time. Are you sure the dash has to come apart to replace it?

Was the first replacement compressor new or rebuilt? If the latter, they are known to be trouble prone.

Obviously it would be better to just run the compressor less, and that is what an OEM would be doing with a thermistor and clutch control. Yes, but it's not the complete picture. As said in part, a thermistor used in MVAC that is mounted directly on the evaporator and has less resistance at higher ...

I strongly suggest changing your user name. Otherwise, there will be no end to the spam you'll receive.

Another problem that surfaces frequently on this Forum is the clutch gap—that is, a feeler-gauge measurement of the space between the clutch's drive and driven plates. For most vehicles, it should be ~0.020" or the thickness of a business card. If the gap is too wide, the clutch probably won't ...

If I increase my rpm to 1500-2000 rpm then I would expect my low side pressure to drop & my high side pressure to rise, correct? Yes, but within limits. The low side should stay within the normally correct range while the high side will rise (but not continue to rise) based mainly on the ambien...

The bean counters have "re-engineered" that TXV, all right. The only difference that I can see comparing the new versus old part (discounting the thinner walls) is the slightly smaller HP orifice on the new TXV. What difference that makes, if any, I can't even hazard a guess.

tbirdtbird wrote: ↑Fri Sep 30, 2022 5:00 pm I would sideline that chart.

I agree with the cogent explanation already given. Strive toward getting the low-side pressure into the range it's supposed to be in and forget the chart.

I don't believe you mentioned the year, make, model, and engine size of your classic car. Did it originally come with an A6? Although not without issues, the A6 is arguably the best compressor ever made. The A6 isn't designed to cycle, though. So if your current setup is configured to cycle the comp...

Be aware that you can't "top-off" the refrigerant by pressures alone and expect to have the correct amount in the system. The only way to get the charge right is to recover what's in there now, evacuate, and weigh-in the refrigerant according to the vehicle's specs using an accurate scale ...