Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

I forgot to ask earlier, but when you disassembled the dash to check the blend door, did you get into the evaporator case to clean it out, removing any leaves and other gunk that might have accumulated? Also, since you recently picked up an electronic "sniffer," and since reassembling the dash, have you sniffed around the condensate drain underneath the car and also the dash vents with the system running and the blower on low? If you did that and didn't detect any traces of refrigerant, then the evaporator is probably okay.

Getting back to the Manifold Gauge Set (MGS) for a minute, I understand now what you were saying. The instructions said to attach the red hose to the low side and the blue hose to the high side at the MGS body, giving you reverse readings on the gauges, which confused not only you but also me. If it's an imported MGS, maybe the foreign manufacturer didn't translate "red" and "blue" correctly

jtupper wrote: ↑Wed May 04, 2022 9:49 pm Okay, so it looks like I need a compressor, condenser, drier and o-rings. I'm also replacing the discharge line because I found some dye pretty high up on that line. It could be blow back, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Is it necessary to replace the TXV? It's mounted in the firewall and looks like a PITA to change out.

Check with Tim for all the parts you need at the best prices. Another tip—order some Nylog Blue, which the pros use to lightly coat all the o-rings and flare connection points before buttoning-up everything.

Good idea on replacing the discharge line because you don't want to do the job over, at least in part, due to finding another leak. Tim could get the line for you as well.

As for the TXV, I prefer to retain the OEM part if it's clean and appears to be in good condition because I've noticed some faulty replacement TXV's in the past—of course, only after installing them and after evacuating and recharging the systems—necessitating re-do's on a few.

I realize it's a nuisance, but it might be worthwhile pulling the TXV to inspect it, replacing the o-rings at the same time. Good insurance once again.

JohnHere wrote: ↑Thu May 05, 2022 8:40 am I forgot to ask earlier, but when you disassembled the dash to check the blend door, did you get into the evaporator case to clean it out, removing any leaves and other gunk that might have accumulated? Also, since you recently picked up an electronic "sniffer," and since reassembling the dash, have you sniffed around the condensate drain underneath the car and also the dash vents with the system running and the blower on low? If you did that and didn't detect any traces of refrigerant, then the evaporator is probably okay.

I didn't remove the dash completely but, no, I didn't sniff the vents. I need to get it up in the air a little more to find where the drain exits the cabin. Once I found the leak at the compressor, I stopped looking. Can I assume with those pressures that there is still refrigerant in the system and it's being circulated?

With static pressures of around 80-100 PSI indicated on the gauges, that should be more than enough for leak-checking.

You need to keep looking, you want to find all your leaks now while there is still pressure, else you won't know what to repair. There can easily be more than one leak

Annabelle, are you really a parrot???
You just posted what I wrote in post number 2 word for word. Also, elsewhere, you are posting on 4 yr-old threads.
Suggest you find something constructive to do with your time

"AnnabelleCarey" is a foreign spammer. We've already taken care of her/him.

I finally got around to ordering parts and got everything installed today. What looked like should have taken a couple of hours took me most of the day. Whomever designed these things definitely didn't have the DIY'er in mind. Lots of scratches from cramped awkward positions and lot's of explitives later, it's done.

Now onto the next issue. I can't pull a vacuum down to 29.9 Hg. I can only get it down to like 16-17 Hg. I think it may be the vacuum pump because I can't pull down to 29.9 even just using the gauges not hooked up. I've tried putting teflon tape on the hoses...no joy. The system holds vacuum. My plan is to let it run for another 30 min or so and let it sit overnight under vacuum to see if it holds. If it holds, am I good to charge with refrigerant?

Is this a vac pump with an electric motor?
If it is the Horrible Fright type that uses compressed air, that type pump in no way will deliver a sufficient vac for AC, and will get you numbers right around what you posted.

With a good electric motor type pump, you need to evacuated to however low you can get, 29.9 ideally, for at least an hour.
If your vac is less, the AC will never perform correctly, and you will have wasted your time, money, scratched arms, and expletives

Have you tried changing your vacuum pump's oil using the manufacturer's recommended oil (not 10W-30 motor oil, for instance)? Old, contaminated VP oil could be why it's not pulling down as expected.

Plastic thread sealing tape isn't recommended on any fittings because fragments might enter the system, creating even more problems. If you want to use a sealer on o-rings, gaskets, and flare joints, use Nylog Blue as the pros do.

It's an electric pump that I got from Autozone on their loaner program. I think OEM is the brand. It's a 1.5 CFM pump. I did not change the oil, but I can. The oil is at the proper level in the window and is crystal clear. I just checked the vacuum several hours later and it's still holding vacuum. Should I change the oil in the pump and try to get a deeper vaccum?