Sounds good.
Nothing worse than having to do a job over because of problems that one could have taken care of the first time
I don't think I clarified sufficiently. Draining and measuring the oil in the ORIGINAL compressor, condenser, evaporator, and accumulator isn't necessary because you'll be replacing all but the evaporator with new parts.northbay wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2024 6:33 am On the oil, I understand the idea of draining the old compressor and accumulator and putting back in the same amount on new parts. But what about the condenser, it should also have some oil in it & I can't drain that to see how much? What about the evap? Once I flush that, no way to know.
The idea is to start or end-up (depending on which way you look at it) with a completely clean and "dry" system by flushing the existing parts. In this instance, the only original major component remaining would be the evaporator. By flushing the evaporator in situ, the goal is to remove all traces of the old, contaminated oil and any debris that might be lurking inside it.
In addition to the accumulator, the condenser and lines will be replaced with new parts and will be completely empty of oil.
The new compressor often comes from the factory with enough oil already added. In reality, that might or might not be the case. Typically recommended is to drain-out from the new compressor as much oil as you can, and either refill the compressor with the full specification of 9 ounces of PAG-150, or "oil-balance" the system.
GM used the former "compressor-fill" method on the production line, which is easiest. But you can also oil-balance the system if desired.
The procedure for oil-balancing entails adding small amounts to each major component and the rest to the compressor before assembling the system. A good way to do this is to add 1-1/2 ounces to the now flushed-clean and dry evaporator, 1-1/2 ounces to the new condenser, 2 ounces to the new accumulator, and the balance of 4 ounces to the new compressor.
Both methods work well.
