2003 Ford Taurus - Compressor not engaging

[DSK]

Good evening all.

Seeking some advice...I'm working on the subject line car and have put in new parts (compressor, liquid line w/ o tube, and accumulator) after getting the report that car slowly was losing freon over time.

Vacuum test did not hold, dropping about 1-2 mmhg in 4 hrs. Can see periodic wisps coming out of vac pump...
Added dye with PAG46 oil to help find leak. I began charging the system with the intent of getting enough inside to locate dye leak, then recover at shop to work on leak. With a vacuum on the system, I bled line and added 12oz R134a, getting to about 80 psi static pressure engine off. Ambient is 76F.

Started car and had can in some water with a rag, pressure rose to about 85 psi... and compressor is not turning on.
Underhood sticker says charge level is .96 kg which I estimate at 2.16/2.2 lb/26 oz (correct?).

*Later edit: the headache, heat and anger must have addled my brain. I was using the 12oz can as my pound instead of the 16oz pound standard...
.96kg should be what I kept seeing online @ 34 oz.
Edited further below.
I still would like to know when I could expect the compressor to kick in. If I haven't destroyed it by stupidity.

Impatience unfortunately did prevail here, as I jumped the compressor to move the dye around to find the leak. Stablized at about 18 psi lo side, 150 psi hi side, then with compressor off, stabilized at 92-93 psi both.

I jumped it again after looking around with the UV light, not seeing the leak. This time lo side 10 psi, hi side kept climbing at 225 psi which concerned me and I quit. At last I located the leak on the liquid line from compressor but now am concerned I may have done wrong by jumping the compressor. By this time, the can is empty and compressor still sits still. Pressure stablizes at about 85 psi both sides (I presume I lost some pressure due to leak). I know I'll need new lines now but am concerned there may be other problems here.
I did jump one more time, getting about 15 psi lo side and about 200 psi hi side.

Questions:
-The stable 85 psi seems high...should the compressor be running by now, or do I just need more freon? At what amount should I expect it to turn on, if that can be known?

Very grateful for any advice and recommendations. If there were actions I took that I should not have, please advise on this as well...I want to work on these in the correct way. This is a charity case for a friend...trying to save her money but this has been a real headache.
Thanks

[DSK]

Regarding the previous post:

1. Is it abnormal that the compressor is not clutching in with 12 oz of freon and a reading of 85 psi on both sides? (Ambient 76F). Dynamic pressures in previous post.

2. Is 12 oz in a 34 oz system enough to get the compressor clutching in?
Concerned that I've got a bad switch or some related condition that is not met.

3. For future reference, what else would the system use besides pressures, to allow compressor clutch operation?

Thanks for any assistance. Trying to get a better working knowledge on AC systems...

[dasinc]

If you were reading 85lbs at rest that is plenty of pressure to activate the clutch cycling switch. Did you remember to install the old switch from the original accumulator or install a new one? Did you remember to plug it in? There is also another switch I believe on the compressor manifold. Make sure that is plugged in. You can try unplugging the cycling switch on the accumulator and jumper the harness. If the compressor engages you likely have a bad cycling switch. That is if you do actually have 85 pounds of pressure in the system. Do NOT try to jump the switch at the compressor. That switch is sending a varying low voltage signal to the PCM.

[dasinc]

One other note. If there are any drivability codes present the PCM may not be allowing the compressor to come on.

[DSK]

Thanks very much for your response.

Yes, moved the old cycling switch at the time of replacement, and it was indeed plugged in during testing.
The one on the manifold is plugged in as well.
Good to know, I won't try to fiddle with that one, but can it be tested a different way, ohms or something?

Good idea to jumper the cycling switch, I'll try this first.

There is an intermittent small evap leak code, which was not present during AC replacement and testing.

Thanks very much for your ideas. Hoping this doesn't get too much more involved...