2020 Jetta Ac repair

[Cygnus]

Hi
I have a 2020 Jetta with no functioning Ac.
I had difficulty finding a shop to service the 1234yh refrigerant so I ended up at the dealer.
The quote was 4500 dollars Canadian.
Well i guess I am rolling the windows down.
Was told the compressor was getting power but had failed internally.
They recovered160 grams and charged with 460.
Found small leak at low Shrader. Recommend new line
New compressor,Ac flush ,insert,expansion valve,

I am very mechanically capable ( timing belts engine installs etc.) but I am not very familiar with Ac systems.
So I am trying to plan where to start .

Fist thoughts Replace compressor with reman OEM from eBay or used local salvage.the compressors were used in alot of models.
Replace low pressure line or can I just replace the Shrader valve or seal .
Replace expansion valve and filter.
Buy some proper gauges and fill with 134a.
With them recovering the 1234fy do I need to vacuum down the system?
The dealer told me I could save the 1200 for the flush,but they probably wouldn't warranty the compressor.
Is the flush required?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

[JohnHere]

I have a 2020 Jetta with no functioning Ac.
I had difficulty finding a shop to service the 1234yh refrigerant so I ended up at the dealer.
The quote was 4500 dollars Canadian.
Well i guess I am rolling the windows down.

Not surprised about the difficulty finding a shop that could handle R-1234yf. For reference, $4,500 Canadian works out to about $3,300 US. Windows down in the Summer will be hotter than you think!

Was told the compressor was getting power but had failed internally.
They recovered160 grams and charged with 460.
Found small leak at low Shrader. Recommend new line
New compressor,Ac flush ,insert,expansion valve,

If the compressor failed internally, then they probably shouldn't have recharged it (depending on the failure).

Doubt that you need a new line. Shrader valves normally leak a slight amount. It's the cap that ensures a tight leak-free seal.

If the compressor was indeed disintegrating internally (not just the clutch), then you'll need a new electronically controlled variable-displacement compressor, a new condenser/receiver-dryer assembly, possibly a new TXV, and a thorough flushing of the remaining components.

Fist thoughts Replace compressor with reman OEM from eBay or used local salvage.the compressors were used in alot of models.

Try to locate a brand-new compressor, rather than a rebuilt or one from a salvage yard.

Replace low pressure line or can I just replace the Shrader valve or seal .
Replace expansion valve and filter.
Buy some proper gauges and fill with 134a.

See comments above about the TXV and Shrader valve, but DO NOT attempt to re-charge the R-1234yf system using R-134a. The service ports and adapters are different to prevent that cross-refrigerant usage from happening.

With them recovering the 1234fy do I need to vacuum down the system?

Yes.

The dealer told me I could save the 1200 for the flush,but they probably wouldn't warranty the compressor.
Is the flush required?

Yes, flushing is required, as well as replacing the condenser/receiver-dryer assembly, to maintain the manufacturer's warranty on the compressor.

[Cygnus]

thanks for on for the quick reply.

So would my next best move be to check impedance at the clutch and go from there?
If a compressor is needed do I have to stay with an OEM Denso or are their other options
Can a skilled Diy manage all or most of the tasks with vacuum/ guages etc including system flush or would i need to take it to a shop?
This platform/ motor came with a 134 a system in previous years. Would it be worth exploring retrofit of the entire Ac system to 134a( I am guessing not)
Ultimately the easiest move might be to buy another vehicle with a more serviceable Ac and park the Jetta for the three months that we get heat.

Again I appreciate your time and knowledge