Compressor clutch locked on and gauges read the same

[casey_kreilein]

I recently bought a 2010 Corolla. The AC system does not provide any cooling from the ambient air. I finally got a chance to start diagnosing it yesterday and my immediate issue is the compressor is locked in the engaged position. The pulley is still spinning so it isn't damaging the belts. Before I popped on a new compressor I hooked up the gauges and both read 60 psi.

I'm thinking that something inside the compressor is faulty which is allowing it to spin without generating pressure. I also have only owned the car for the drive home of about 150 miles from point of purchase and I don't know if the previous owner tried to charge the system themselves.

I have a shop that will evacuate the system for me. My plan is to have them evacuate the system and then bring it back home to pull a vacuum on it to check for leaks. If I don't find any leaks I'll replace the compressor. Is it worth it to replace the condenser and the drier while I have everything open. Then I can go back to the shop to have them charge the system.

I'm wondering if there are any other checks I should do before I pull out the refrigerant, or if I'm way off on my thought process?

[JohnHere]

How many miles has your Corolla logged?

I recently bought a 2010 Corolla. The AC system does not provide any cooling from the ambient air. I finally got a chance to start diagnosing it yesterday and my immediate issue is the compressor is locked in the engaged position. The pulley is still spinning so it isn't damaging the belts. Before I popped on a new compressor I hooked up the gauges and both read 60 psi.

Let's see if my understanding is correct. The A/C clutch is stuck "engaged" and the engine (whenever it's running) continuously rotates the compressor mainshaft whether the A/C system is switched on or switched off—is that right?

Is the static pressure (engine and compressor not running) 60 PSI on both the high side and low side? Or, did you record those pressures with the compressor running? Also, what was the ambient temperature when you recorded those pressures?

I'm thinking that something inside the compressor is faulty which is allowing it to spin without generating pressure. I also have only owned the car for the drive home of about 150 miles from point of purchase and I don't know if the previous owner tried to charge the system themselves.

Do you know any of the history of service to the A/C system?

I have a shop that will evacuate the system for me. My plan is to have them evacuate the system and then bring it back home to pull a vacuum on it to check for leaks. If I don't find any leaks I'll replace the compressor. Is it worth it to replace the condenser and the drier while I have everything open. Then I can go back to the shop to have them charge the system.

I think you mean "recover" the refrigerant instead of "evacuate," which is the correct and proper way to proceed before the system is opened for any repairs.

Be aware that a system might not leak under vacuum, but it might leak under pressure—especially on the high side.

Typically, the manufacturers of a new or rebuilt compressors require that the condenser and Receiver/Dryer (R/D) be replaced at the same time to maintain the factory warranty on the compressor.

If the clutch is shot, and possibly the compressor, it's often cost-comparable to purchase a new clutch-and-compressor assembly.

The OE for the A/C system in your car is Denso.