High efficiency condensor for C5 vette

[zz28zz]

Had my compressor lock-up and looking around for replacement parts. Unfortunately all the dealership parts are no longer available. Currently looking for a condenser. Looking for something as good or better than OEM. I live in Texas so the higher the efficiency, the better.

Found some vids online where they did a cross-section cut and you could see how the OEM cross-tubes have more chambers per tube than the aftermarket versions. Then there was cross-tube count and number of fins per inch. None of the after market condenser ads even mention this kind of stuff, so it's hard to tell how efficient they would be.

Looked into later model vette OEM condensers but it appears they switched to a different design with the C6 vettes having the drier on the side of the condenser.

Open to ideas.

TIA

[JohnHere]

A few questions: What year is your C5? LS1 (coupe or convertible) or LS6 (coupe) engine? Do you know what the reason was for your V7 compressor failure?

[zz28zz]

2000 coupe with stock LS1. I had replaced the compressor, condenser, dryer, orfice tube with all GM parts in 2008 shortly after buying the car. Also flushed evap and hoses with special solvent made for that purpose. Lasted until last week. Put abt 100K miles on it during that period.

It didn't give any warning. I was working fine then it just made a buuuurp sound accompanied with a noticeable loss in power for abt 1 sec, then warm air started coming out the outlets. Shut off the A/C. When I got home abt 20 mins later, I popped the hood and verified belt was still in place and turned the A/C on again. When the compressor clutch engaged, it almost stalled the eng. Quickly turned A/C back off and pulled it into the garage. Hasn't moved since.

[JohnHere]

2000 coupe with stock LS1. I had replaced the compressor, condenser, dryer, orfice tube with all GM parts in 2008 shortly after buying the car. Also flushed evap and hoses with special solvent made for that purpose. Lasted until last week. Put abt 100K miles on it during that period

The A/C system lasted about 18 years and 100,000 miles. Not too shabby!

A few more questions: Back in 2008, do you recall how you charged the system, by pressures or by weight? (Precisely by weight, using an accurate scale or RRR machine, is the correct method.) How much oil did you add? Any leaks that you're aware of?

The specs that I have for your car are as follows: 24.0 ounces net weight of R-134a, and 9.0 fluid ounces of PAG-150.

It didn't give any warning. I was working fine then it just made a buuuurp sound accompanied with a noticeable loss in power for abt 1 sec, then warm air started coming out the outlets. Shut off the A/C. When I got home abt 20 mins later, I popped the hood and verified belt was still in place and turned the A/C on again. When the compressor clutch engaged, it almost stalled the eng. Quickly turned A/C back off and pulled it into the garage. Hasn't moved since.

My guess is that the compressor failed due to a lack of sufficient oil, or a slow refrigerant leak, or both. The refrigerant carries the oil. If the system had a very slow leak, it might have taken until recently for the compressor to disintegrate internally. If there wasn't enough oil to begin with, together with a refrigerant leak, might also be the cause of the compressor failure.

In any event, since the compressor seized, you'll have to repeat what you did in 2008 and start with a "dry" system.

That is, replace the following components: Compressor assembly, condenser, orifice tube (OT), accumulator, all o-rings and seals, cabin air filter—as well as flushing the evaporator and lines.

Then add the oil, reassemble everything, evacuate, and re-charge the system according to the manufacturer's specifications or under-hood decal (the decal takes precedence).

Ensure also that the fan is reaching top speed (fan motors sometimes become weak over time), that it runs whenever the A/C is switched on, and that all shrouds, air dams, and insulation between the radiator and condenser are in place.

Call Tim at ACKits.com, this Forum's sponsor, leave a voicemail, and he'll respond with all the right parts at the best prices, including the correct parallel-flow condenser that you're concerned about.

You might already be aware, but Corvettes are not known for the most efficient A/C systems due mainly to their sloping front ends and compromised condensing. However, I'm pretty sure that improvements to the A/C parts for your car have been made since it was new. Starting with the best parts from ACKits.com will ensure that you get all of the latest enhancements.

[Tim]

Ha, John got yelled at today because I sent all the info I had on a 708 compressor, gasket, and seals. He got mad because I didn't tell him which seal they needed out of the two in the email. The person wanted to chat, chat, or email; no way to tell which seal they had unless they pulled it and matched it. Again, someone was pissed at me over a $4.00 seal. Just not worth it anymore. But now that I gave him all the information, they are out Google Shopping and will badmouth me.

We only stock the aftermarket condenser.
G4786S

[zz28zz]

Thx for the link Tim. BTW, are there any "kits" on ACkits.com? I didn't see any.

John, don't recall a lot of details abt the work done in 2008 other than it was a pain to do in the driveway. I think I used 2 cans. Don't remember abt the oil but it was whatever GM calls for. C5's are a pain to R&R a compressor. Gotta either pull an exh manifold or the water pump or raise the eng in relation to the subframe.

You are right abt the A/C being marginal on a vette when it's over 100 degs outside.. That's the main reason I'm so concerned abt aftermarket condensers. I really can't afford to loose any efficiency. Another related concern with a less efficient condenser is that the high-side press will run higher, putting more load on the compressor and causing it to die sooner.

[Tim]

You mean compressor kits. I don't list things that way. But I have access to kits from all the leading brands. Post a kit number or full vehicle information, and I'll add the kit to our site.

[JohnHere]

John, don't recall a lot of details abt the work done in 2008 other than it was a pain to do in the driveway. I think I used 2 cans. Don't remember abt the oil but it was whatever GM calls for. C5's are a pain to R&R a compressor. Gotta either pull an exh manifold or the water pump or raise the eng in relation to the subframe.

The small cans might or might not have had 12 ounces net weight (each) in them. Most likely, they were underfilled, resulting in a less-than-expected charge weight from the beginning. The only way to get it precisely correct is to weigh-in each can on an accurate refrigerant scale that counts down.

As for the oil, the way the pros do it is to empty whatever oil is in the new compressor, then re-fill the compressor to the manufacturer's specification. Either that or "oil-balance" the system according to the Factory Service Manual. Both methods presume starting with a completely "dry" system.

[zz28zz]

Is it common for 12oz cans to be short on refrigerant? I've never heard of that. I have a scale I use for partial cans.

In regards to the oil, I was planning on putting half in the compressor and the other half in the receiver/dryer. Don't have an oil injector gizmo.

For the condenser, think I'll just use whatever is readily available. It's not very easy to compare efficiency since none of the manuf supply any info in regards to BTUs, number of tube chambers or fins per inch. Looking at pics, it does appear that all the ones I looked at have the same number of tubes (39).

I did speak to a 3rd generation A/C guy. Only advise he had was to look at EV condensers. Apparently the EV's use the A/C system to cool the batt (and possibly the inverter) in addition to cooling the pass compartment. Kinda like a dual zone A/C, so condenser is thicker than a normal condenser. Trying to find one that will physically fit is another challenge. Would likely need custom brackets and connections too. I may re-visit this in the future, but for now, I need the A/C working.

[Cusser]

Is it common for 12oz cans to be short on refrigerant? I've never heard of that.

Someone mentioned that a few years ago, think it was on this site. At that time, I had maybe 8 12-oz cans of R134a around and found them all OK.

On the other hand, I also feel that one can only deliver about 11 oz. from such cans into the system, from venting the hoses to some remaining inside the can.